Insider advice for the independent traveller Travelling with parents - the toughest test?

In this issue:

My Cape Town
Last chance for Christmas
Upcoming Events


My Cape Town

“And in about 500 yards the road should take a slight bend to the left,” my father informed us, one cigar-stained finger tracing our route along the map as we topped yet another breathtaking mountain pass.  Regardless of where we were going and whether or not I might know the route blindfolded, Dad’s eyes rarely strayed from the A-Z as he took pains to keep us informed of what we might expect around the next corner.  Then again, it could well have been his method of self-preservation as he is not used to being chauffeured by his youngest daughter.  My mother, sitting in the passenger seat, may have developed a certain tension across the shoulders as Dad resisted her every attempt to persuade him to enjoy the view, but I was also aware of her right foot shooting out occasionally to the imaginary brake pedal in her footwell.

I had been nervous about my parents coming out to Cape Town as it was perhaps going to be one of the toughest tests of whether this city was going to live up to all my claims. There were just four characters in the balancing act – 1) a mother who, never having been to Africa before,  was keen to explore but couldn’t quite hide a fear of cannibals behind a resolutely cheerful smile; 2) a father recently recovered from a broken hip whose daily needs include whisky, cigars and a good afternoon kip and who also happened to have ‘done’ Cape Town ten years previously; 3) a husband who really really likes his own space and 4) a seven and a half month pregnant daughter/wife who’d moved her ‘office’ out of the second bedroom into the living room of the tiny house they must all share… every day for two and a half weeks.  Big Brother eat your heart out.

But Cape Town, good old Cape Town, did us proud.  How could it not?  We drove along the cable car road and up to Signal Hill to see the city bowl spread at our feet.  We took trips to Hout Bay and Noordhoek and Simon’s Town.  We wandered through Company’s Gardens and did whistle stop tours of  the National Museum and the old Town House.  We had lunch in pubs, bistros and restaurants, in squares, gardens and on cliff-sides.  We explored Kirstenbosch Gardens (at their peak in October), and the centre of town. We went to a grown-up dinner party and a laid-back family braai.  We saw penguins, sunbirds, baboons and whales. We drank cocktails while we watched the sun set from a bar in Camps Bay.  We tasted wine in Constantia and did a historical tour of Franschhoek.  Only once did we actually go away for the night and that was to Hermanus, a two hour drive along a stunning road with an excellent farm stall at the half way point.  As Mum climbed out of the car at the Hermanus seafront, she asked the car park attendant where the whales were.  Without a hint of irony, the man pointed out into the bay. “There,” he said, and sure enough a Southern Right launched itself out of the water right on cue. 

That afternoon we visited the deliciously extravagant Birkenhead House where we had our socks charmed off by the wonderful staff – more about that in another letter.  We had to drag Dad away as he asked for “perhaps a nip of vodka” in his iced tea, and whisked him off to the spacious rural luxury of the Blue Gum Country Estate in Stanford where the house info includes such advice as “occasionally you may see our sons pedalling their bicycles around the estate, usually dressed as Spiderman.  Do not be afraid if they approach – they are not dangerous”.  Heaven.

Yes, I think Cape Town passed the test with flying colours.  And I saw my smirk of satisfaction mirrored in Mum’s face as, passing over Silvermine mountain on the last day of the holiday we heard Dad exclaim, “Good God, have you seen that view?”

Daisy

www.capeconcierge.co.za  


 

Please note:
Due to the impending marshmallow-soft sledgehammer of motherhood* I will not be able to deal with all enquiries personally during the months of December and January.  I do however have some fabulous contacts here in Cape Town who will be delightfully helpful to anyone sensible enough to be heading this way in the coming months.

* (apologies to Terry Pratchett)



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Last chance for Christmas

There aren’t many villas still available over Christmas and New Year, but here is a selection of some crackers (ha ha).  Please note that over Peak Season most villas have a minimum booking period of two weeks. 


Extravagant (Go on, indulge):

Ibis House, Constantia: Set within seven acres of lush private garden, this country house is bordered by forest, wine farms and mountains, and happens to be just a five minute drive from three of Cape Town’s most famous restaurants.  It is also close to Constantia Village and in a central position to reach all of the most popular beaches within 15 to 20 minutes.  Most of the six en-suite bedrooms lead out onto private balconies or roof terraces with spectacular views across the forest to the mountain peaks beyond.  Further accommodation is available in two cottages within the grounds.  The 25m pool is a dominating feature of the semi-wild garden from which gates lead directly into the enchanting Tokai forest, which offers wonderful walking trails. POA.

Battersea Villa, Noordhoek:  One of the best beach locations on the entire Cape Peninsula, this house is protected from the wind by Chapman’s Peak which soars up behind, and gazes over the whole of Noordhoek beach from its position on the hillside.  A terrace with a sunken jacuzzi stretches across the front of the property making the most of the spectacular views while remaining private from the outside world.  The house even has its own path leading down to the beach.  Six en-suite bedrooms, balconies, verandas, a music room and lots of living space make this a great hideaway.  At the back of the house is a sheltered courtyard with a large swimming pool and an al fresco dining area. POA.


Treat (You know you want to):

Cote Sud Villa, Higgovale: This palatial home is situated in 3000m² of parkland on the slopes of Table Mountain, affording it breathtaking views of Table Bay, the harbour, the city skyline and the mountains beyond.  Higgovale is the most exclusive residential area within the city bowl, with just a few streets winding their way through lush greenery and mountain streams.  It feels miles from anywhere, but in fact is just minutes from the city centre, the V&A Waterfront, the cable car and many popular beaches.  A granny flat is available in addition to the four enormous en-suite bedrooms.  The charming garden has a heated swimming pool and a gazebo.  Daily rate from ZAR 7 000.

The Old Winery, Constantia:  A historical building which has been totally restored and now provides a comfortable house with an abundance of character. The house features four bedrooms and three bathrooms and there is also a one bedroom cottage available. French doors lead from the dining room onto a delightful outdoor veranda which overlooks the property’s substantial garden with its swimming pool and pergola-covered terrace. 20 minutes from the city centre and 15-20 minutes from the most popular beaches. Daily rate of ZAR 4 800 for the house or ZAR 5 400 for the house and the cottage.

Villa Vereguth, Clifton: A large and very spacious Tuscan style four bedroom villa with spectacular views of the Atlantic Seaboard and the luxury yachts often anchored in the bay.  Two minutes by car from the world-renowned Clifton beaches, and a short drive from Camps Bay. Villa Vereguth is ideal for outdoor entertainment, breakfasts on the sea-facing balcony or al fresco lunch in the mountain-facing garden where the secluded pool area has a rock waterfall flowing into the swimming pool. There is also an entertainment theatre, air-conditioning, gym and wireless internet connection.  Daily rate of ZAR 8 400.


Bargain (Quick!  Book the flights!):

Sea Ranch, Noordhoek: A four bedroom, newly renovated luxurious holiday home.  Its distinctly unusual décor and design is focused towards creating a space of peacefulness and tranquillity, making the most of its awesome sea views and fabulous indoor / outdoor flow.  Located on the hillside above the seven kilometre stretch of beach, its wraparound timber decks and wall-to-ceiling glass windows ensure that the exquisite views are enjoyed from every angle.  Walking distance to the beach, with a lawned garden and a magical indigenous landscape on the hillside behind, the house is perfect for families or for travellers seeking a tranquil, relaxed retreat. New on the market. Daily rate of ZAR 3 600.

Sillery Cottage, Constantia:  A luxurious three bedroom cottage, exquisitely positioned in the heart of the Constantia valley, just a few minutes from stunning wine farms and fabulous restaurants.  The master bedroom is en-suite, and the living area is spacious and open-plan, with French doors leading onto the terrace and private pool. The acre of wild garden offers rolling lawns and welcome shade under the trees.  A variety of the best beaches in Cape Town can be reached within 15-25 minutes of this central location, and the city centre is just a 20 minute drive north. Great for a family or a group of friends. Daily rate of ZAR 2450.

Haven House, Noordhoek:  An elegant thatched home with a charming country feel, situated in a quiet location with lovely sea views towards the setting sun.  The three main bedrooms (master en-suite) are supplemented by a studio flat which is available at an extra cost.  The spacious sitting room has French doors which lead on to the veranda overlooking the charcoal pool and garden. 35 minutes from the city centre and a short drive from the pubs and farm stalls of Noordhoek village and the spectacular Noordhoek beach. Perfect for a family.  Daily rate of ZAR 3 000.

Dunmore Apartment, Clifton: Situated above the world famous white sands of Clifton's beaches, this apartment offers two bedroom comfort and luxury. Direct access parking ensures easy mobility, a rare find in this popular cliff-side area.  The apartment has stunning sea views from the living areas and both the bedrooms as well as the balcony, and is an easy stroll from the beach. 15 minutes from the city centre.  Daily rate of ZAR 2 700.



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Upcoming Events

THREE PEAKS CHALLENGE
5 November 
The annual commemoration of the feat of one C.W. Schneeberger who, in 1897, ascended Devil’s Peak, Table Mountain and Lion’s Head, returning each time to what was then the Johannesburg Hotel in Long Street, Cape Town. The 2005 event will be the ninth in its organized form.

CLASSIC AND WOODEN BOATS RALLY
5 - 7 November
A chance to view boats from another era.

DIANA ROSS IN CONCERT
11 November
The most successful female vocalist of all time (Guinness Book of Records) will perform a one-off concert in Cape Town in aid of some of South Africa's worthiest charities including The Nelson Mandela Children’s Fund.  Westlife will also be performing as guest stars.

CAPE TOWN WORLD CINEMA FESTIVAL
11 - 20 November
A festival of world cinema with African film at its heart, which takes place at the same time as the annual Sithengi South African Film & Television Market.

RED BULL CAPE TOWN MAN
19 November
An extreme relay race in and around the city of Cape Town, incorporating speed kite surfing, mountain biking, mountain running and speed paragliding. Seventy teams from around the world will compete against each other over a pre-defined course that covers the natural and man-made elements of the city.

CAPE TOWN FASHION FESTIVAL
19 - 27 November
A celebration of South African fashion, design and textiles.

APPLETISER KIRSTENBOSCH SUMMER SUNSET CONCERTS
Every Sunday 27 November to 2 April 2006
A chance to drink wine and picnic in one of the most spectacular concert venues in South Africa, the stage framed by the backdrop of Table Mountain.
 
YSTERPLAAT OPEN DAY AND AIR SHOW
2 - 4 December
This air show regularly attracts thousands of enthusiastic visitors and is fast becoming one of Cape Town's show case events.

ALL- AFRICA OPEN PARAGLIDING CHAMPIONSHIPS
4 - 10 December
A rare opportunity for members of the public to see serious paraglider pilots competing at one of the world's best venues.

SIMONSBERG FINE WINE & FOOD FAIR
10 - 11 December
Celebrating its fifth year of success, the Simonsberg Fine Wine & Food Fair will present a December holiday weekend of gastronomic and vinous feasting.  

THE CAPE ARGUS SANLAM CYCLE TOUR
11 December
Cape Town’s second largest cycle tour offers a choice of 118km and 72km routes through the scenic winelands and wheat fields of Durbanville and the Swartland, and is also the final seeding event for the Cape Argus Pick & Pay Cycle Tour 2006.
Entries close on 20 November.

CAROLS BY CANDLELIGHT AT KIRSTENBOSCH
14 - 18 December 
 
GOLF - SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS OPEN
15 - 18 December
The Links at Fancourt has established itself as one of the toughest courses in the country and has hosted several major tournaments in recent years, including The Presidents Cup in 2003 and earlier this year, the inaugural Women's World Cup of Golf. 

MOTHER CITY QUEER COSTUME PARTY
16 - 17 December
First held in 1994, Cape Town's annual Mother City Queer Costume Party prides itself in bringing together all the various "queer tribes of Cape Town" for a grand summer bash.

GOOD HOPE FM / VODACOM CLIFTON BEACH CHALLENGE
18 December
Clifton’s trendy 4th Beach plays host once more to this challenge featuring strength, speed and fitness contests between celebrity Springbok rugby stars and the Clifton Beach lifesavers.

NEW YEAR'S EVE CONCERT AT KIRSTENBOSCH
31 December
'Under the Stars' with pop sensation Watershed, R&B artist Loyiso and 5000 picnickers. 

SIMON'S TOWN NEW YEAR'S PARTY
31 December
Music, food stalls, and loads of fun.

CAPE TOWN MINSTREL CARNIVAL
31 December - 2 January 2006 tbc
Cape Town’s biggest and most raucous carnival sees the city celebrating the advent of the New Year with numerous festivals, competitions and extravagant parades.

SHAKESPEARE AT MAYNARDVILLE OPEN-AIR THEATRE
19 January - 18 February 2006 tbc
An annual event, inspired by the productions in London's Regent Park. On warm summer evenings many theatre-goers begin the evening by picnicking in the park before the show begins.

CAPE FEST WORLD MUSIC FESTIVAL
January 2006 tbc
A five-day musical celebration featuring 36 top South African and international bands performing at the beautiful Mnandi Beach Resort, where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet and Table Mountain provides a dramatic backdrop.

J&B MET
28 January 2006
The Western Cape’s premier horse race.

UMOJA - The Spirit of Togetherness
7 - 19 February 2006
With a cast of 40 of South Africa's brightest and most versatile young performers, singers, dancers, drummers and marimba players this is a joyous celebration of dynamic talent, thrilling energy, great voices and sensual dancing sweeping across the bright and vibrant South African traditional musical landscape.

AQUA OPERA
9 - 11 February 2006
This annual floating opera spectacle features the Cape Philharmonic Orchestra, a massed choir and some of Cape Town’s hottest vocal talent and rising opera stars.

CAPE TOWN PRIDE
17 - 26 February 2006 tbc
Nelson Mandela’s new constitution, when he swept away Apartheid and ushered in South African democracy in 1994, included the all important "freedom of sexual orientation" clause.  This 10 day celebration is considered Africa’s Mardi Gras.

ONE DAY INTERNATIONAL: SOUTH AFRICA v AUSTRALIA
3 March 2006
South Africa take on Australia at Newlands in Cape Town in the second ODI match of the Australian cricket tour to South Africa.

CAPE TOWN FESTIVAL
3 - 24 March 2006 
Cape Town welcomes a wave of sizzling talent from the arts, culture and heritage sectors.  The best in original South African and international music, performance, public art, comedy, spoken word and visual arts is featured under the banner of Celebrating Ubuntu (Humanity).

CAPE ARGUS PICK N’ PAY CYCLE TOUR
12 March 2006
A highlight on both the professional and amateur cyclists calendar, this is the world's largest individually timed cycle race, with over 35 000 cyclists tackling a 109km route around Cape Town. 

5 DAY TEST MATCH: SOUTH AFRICA v AUSTRALIA
16 - 20 March 2006
South Africa take on Australia at Newlands in Cape Town in the first Test match of the Australian cricket tour.

CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL
31 March - 1 April 2006
The Cape Town International Jazz Festival (formerly known as The North Sea Jazz Festival) is officially dubbed 'Africa's Grandest Gathering' and boasts an impressive line-up of the world's top jazz artists.

OLD MUTUAL TWO OCEANS MARATHON
15 April 2006
The world's most beautiful marathon attracts approximately 20 000 participants every year.

THE CAPE EPIC
22 April - 29 April 2006
This third annual epic mountain bike race involves 800 mountain bikers from 29 countries riding more than 900 gruelling kilometres through the magnificent scenery of the Western Cape.



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