My Cape Town

Thursday afternoons can be so dull, can’t they?  The mornings too really,  despite the thrill of racing to get the bins out in time.  After that, the rest of the day has a rather limp ’not-quite-Friday’ feel to it. Last Thursday was a little different - there was various work to tackle, but the sun was out and Table Mountain was gleaming smugly outside my window so I pushed back my chair, picked up my bag, and headed off for a champagne cruise.  Aah, life is tough in Cape Town.

There were only five of us on board Esperance.  Welcomed aboard by Paul, we were asked if we had done any sailing before.  “Nein” said my Austrian companions with a happy shake of their heads.  Paul grimaced and asked, “Have you seen The Perfect Storm?”  “Nein,” they responded, still smiling.  A slight breeze ruffled the rigging while we sat on the mooring, but Paul informed us that once out of the harbour we would be experiencing a 30 knot wind, gusting to as much as 35 knots.  My smile stiffened slightly while Paul checked the life ring and the crew slipped into their oilskins.  My four fellow sailors took photos of each other and waved without suspicion at their tour guide who had opted to stay on shore.

Easing past the lesser seen parts of the Waterfront - the wharfs and berths where the real work takes place - the scenery was theatrical.  In the foreground there was the activity of unloading the trawlers onto the hard from which rose up a line of brightly painted warehouses.  In the middle distance the city and, towering above everything else, the extraordinary outline of Table Mountain provided a dramatic backdrop, an ancient rock topped by an incongruous fluff of white cloud.

The scarf I had tied round my head in an attempt to look like a jaunty sailing type came off before we even left the harbour.  Sails up, Esperance shot out of the harbour at a 45 degree incline and headed straight towards the massive container vessels that arrive in Cape Town by the dozen.  Sail takes precedence over motor, and sure enough smaller motor vessels crammed with less adventurous tourists skipped out of our way in order, so it seemed, that we could challenge the container ships unhindered. 

The wind certainly had a bite to it, but it was blowing from the south and the north-facing bay had no swell on it.  By the time Roger the skipper had finished pointing out the penguins swimming alongside us we were right out into the bay, the Waterfront way behind us just a blob now at the base of the mountain. The west coast of Africa stretched away on one side of us, on the other open ocean all the way to Rio.

Paul’s prophecy of high seas was, thankfully, unfulfilled.  The wind had dropped to a steady 20 knots allowing us to cut rapidly through the water without much more than the odd splash of brine dampening our wind-whipped cheeks. 

There is an undeniable romance about being powered at speed under broad expanses of white canvas which goes hand in hand with the quaffing of a little fizz. Forty five degrees did not prove too much of a tilt to pour champagne nor, in fact, to drink it. But there is a little known rule that anything drunk on a boat is four times as alcoholic as the same drink at home.  The Austrians, quiet and placid at the beginning, were swinging from the rigging after the first glass.

The yacht went about gracefully under the deft hands of the crew and was pointed for home as the rest of us rolled around happily in the cockpit. 

Less than an hour later I found myself sitting in rush hour traffic, the most moronic of ways to spend time.  But my skin was still tingling and my ears ringing, and there was a small but rather pleasant spin behind my eyes.  I felt enormously alive as I gazed in wonder at the commuters on all sides of me.  Did they not realise?

It was six o’clock when I got home. Neill looked up as I weaved in through the door.  “Nice day?” he asked.  I felt the thin salt crust on my cheeks crack as an enormous grin spread across my wind-flushed face. “Pretty good,”  I said, “for a Thursday.”

Daisy

The Waterfront Boat Company offers champagne and sunset cruises on Esperance daily.  It holds a maximum of 45 passengers and is also available for private charter.  For more information, contact me:     

Hotel of the month

Cape Cove is one of Cape Town's leading boutique-design hotels. An exclusive retreat with just 6 spacious bedrooms, it offers total tranquillity in an awesome setting of contemporary architecture with sweeping views over the city and the Atlantic beyond.

Situated just about as high as you can get above the city, Cape Cove nestles into the side of Lion's Head in the prestigious residential suburb of Fresnaye,  within a short drive of the trendy beaches at Clifton, the V&A Waterfront and downtown Cape Town.

Designed by its architect owner,  Cape Cove has been specifically created to embody an atmosphere of luxurious relaxation, highlighted by a choice of earthy colours and sensual textures. Each of the rooms has its own sitting area and private balcony with a view over the Atlantic Ocean or the indigenous garden, and is thoughtfully kitted out with every comfort down to beach bags and beach towels.  The living areas focus on the two pools – the one a heated infinity pool with breathtaking views, the other a larger swimming pool in a garden setting, overlooked by a shady pergola.

Oozing laid-back style from every well-groomed nook and cranny, the lodge also offers pretty sharp service, including a sumptuous breakfast, healthy snacks and afternoon tea.  If this isn’t enough to help its guests unwind, private massages are also available by arrangement – typical of a place that revels in its capacity for sensual indulgence.

Double rooms at Cape Cove cost from R 1 265 (£ 97 or Є 148) in Low Season (May to September) or from R 2 300 (£ 177 or Є 269) in High Season (October to April).

Upcoming Events

Concerts, sailing, wine, flying, flowers, music, exhibitions, comedy, kites, soccer, festivals, whales, cricket, parties, carnivals and the World Cup (the other one)...

LIPTON CHALLENGE CUP
27 August - 1 September
The Lipton Cup is South Africa’s Premier Sailing event, evolving since 1911 to become one of the most glamorous in the world of sailing.
www.liptoncup.co.za

V&A WATERFRONT SPRING FLOWER SHOW
30 August - 3 September
A celebration of the miracle of nature with garden exhibits, show gardens, floral art and art exhibitions.

CLANWILLIAM WILD FLOWER SHOW
30 August - 6 September
An exhibition of over 350 wild flower species in the Flower Church, a historical building. Certain species in this district, such as the Snow Protea, are found nowhere else in the world.
www.tourismclanwilliam.co.za

CAPE TOWN 10TH INTERNATIONAL COMEDY FESTIVAL
3 - 24 September
South Africa's biggest comedy festival, featuring the world's leading stand-up comedians alongside South Africa's best.
www.comedyfestival.co.za  

CALEDON WILD FLOWER SHOW
8 - 10 September
The largest Wild Flower Show in the country, from the region with the greatest variety of species in the world.

HERMANUS WILD FLOWER FESTIVAL
14 - 17 September
Another wild flower show.
http://fernkloof.com/festival.mv

DARLING WILDFLOWER SHOW
15 - 17 September
Yup, and another.
http://darlingwildflowers.co.za/wild_flower_show.htm

TABLE MOUNTAIN CHALLENGE
16 September 
A 35km trail run on Table Mountain through cool indigenous forests with mountain streams, slopes of fynbos and awesome vistas. Relay options available for entry level participants. Wild flower gazing optional.
www.adventureworks.co.za/Sports%20Events/index.html   

CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL KITE FESTIVAL
16 - 17 September
The skies above Muizenberg will flaunt a fantastic visual display as kite enthusiasts from around the world congregate in this seaside suburb.
www.capementalhealth.co.za/kite.htm

SIMON'S TOWN PENGUIN FESTIVAL
16 - 17 September
A festival catering for cultural, environmental, historical, adventurous and holiday interests. 
www.gosimonstown.com

AFRICA AEROSPACE AND DEFENCE EXPO   
20 - 24 September
Africa's largest aerospace, defence, and security exhibition is an international event including two public days with an air show and an exhibition.
www.aadexpo.co.za

HOMELESS WORLD CUP
21 - 30 September
Now in its fourth year, this international event is to be hosted by Cape Town and will see teams from no less than 48 nations taking part.
www.streetsoccer.org / www.bigissue.org.za

HERMANUS WHALE FESTIVAL
22 - 25 September
Every year, from July to December, thousands of Southern Right Whales migrate to South Africa to mate and calve in the bays. The town of Hermanus offers some of the best land-based whale watching in the world, and the festival includes the world's only "Welcome Whales Wave", a human chain of 4 000 people.
www.whalefestival.co.za

STELLENBOSCH MUSIC FESTIVAL
27 September - 7 October
Combining classical and traditional music with art exhibitions, workshops, master classes and community projects.

CAPE OUTDOOR ADVENTURE EXPERIENCE
29 September - 1 October
This annual exhibition covers the full profile of Outdoor and Adventure products and services from South Africa and its neighbouring countries.
www.outdoorexpo.co.za

NEDBANK CAPE WINEMAKERS GUILD AUCTION
7 October
A selection of 44 rare and unique wines from some of South Africa’s most sought-after wineries.
www.capewinemakersguild.com

JAY-Z AND RIHANNA IN CONCERT
11 October
Hip-Hop heavyweight Jay-Z, and Caribbean Queen, Rihanna perform at the Bellville Velodrome.  Rihanna had massive global success with her 'Tainted Love' sampled single, SOS.

WORLD AMATEUR TEAM CHAMPIONSHIPS
14 - 29 October
Amateur golf's biggest international event.  Jack Nicklaus, Tiger Woods, Ernie Els, Phil Mickelson, Michael Campbell, Annika Sorenstam and Kerrie Webb all participated before turning professional.  Who will be next?
www.worldamateur2006.co.za

180º CEDERBERG MOUNTAIN BIKE EXPERIENCE
20 - 22 October
The most prestigious 3-day stage race on the South African mountain bike calendar.   Set in the breathtaking terrain of the unique Cederberg Wilderness Area, the route traverses stunning mountain passes, river-crossings and dusty jeep and technical single tracks.
www.180mtb.co.za

SAA CAPE TOWN FLOWER SHOW
26 - 29 October
Not wild flowers this time, but an outdoor gardening experience with inspirational show-gardens in picturesque surroundings. The event provides a marketplace to see and buy gardening products and services and hosts a forum for lectures and demonstrations.
www.capetownflower.com

ELGIN OPEN GARDENS
26 – 27 October; 4 - 5 November; 11 - 12 November tbc
17 gardens are opening over two weekends in the Elgin, Grabouw, Bot River and Vyeboom areas.  A major annual attraction for garden lovers, and visitors to the SAA Cape Town Flower Show.
www.villaexner.com / www.capetownflower.com

WELLNESS FESTIVAL
27 - 29 October
A complete holistic lifestyle festival to nourish body and soul at the V&A Waterfront, with a wide variety of stalls, workshops and talks.

CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL FAIR
27 October - 5 November
The largest fair in Cape Town, with exhibitors from many countries showcasing furniture and fashion.

LIVE – BLACK MOUNTAIN – "WHITE WORLD TOUR"
31 October
Super-group LIVE, one of the world’s most celebrated rock bands, return to SA for their most extensive tour yet. 

BILLY JOEL IN CONCERT
1 November
6-time Grammy award winner Billy Joel heads south to SA to perform hits from his massive repertoire.

THREE PEAKS CHALLENGE
4 November
A unique, challenging and spectacular mountain and city run across Greenmarket Square, Devil's Peak, Table Mountain and Lion's Head, returning to the square after each peak. Fun and challenging but not for the faint hearted.

GREAT WESTERN CAPE BIKE RIDE
4 - 12 November
Nine days pedalling through some of the most picturesque locations in South Africa, visiting game parks, wineries and spas.  Anyone can enter, and a bike is provided to ride and keep.
www.greateventcompany.com

INTERNATIONAL DRAGON BOAT FESTIVAL
10 - 12 November
The 10th Cape Town International Dragon Boat Festival encompasses 2 000 years of tradition and involves beautifully painted boats and spirited drummers.  Various international races are planned.  All proceeds go to charity.
www.dragonboat.co.za    

OPERA: COSI FAN TUTTE
11 - 17 November 
Mozart's witty and sophisticated comedy is a magical combination of marvellous music and sparkling dialogue.  Are women as faithful as they say? Are men as innocent as they claim?
www.capetownopera.co.za

CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL
16 November - 7 December
World famous conductors and soloists present a feast of music at various venues.
www.capephilharmonic.org.za / www.artscape.co.za

CAPE TOWN WORLD CINEMA FESTIVAL
14 - 21 November
A festival of world cinema with African film at its heart, this takes place at the same time as the Annual Sithengi South African Film and Television Market.
www.sithengi.co.za

INTERNATIONAL CRICKET: SOUTH AFRICA V. INDIA
26 November
India, in South Africa for a full summer tour, take on the Proteas in a One Day International at Newlands.
www.homeofsport.com/cricket/countries/details.aspx?id=3

APPLETISER KIRSTENBOSCH SUMMER SUNSET CONCERTS
Sunday evenings November 2006 - April 2007  
A chance to drink wine and picnic in one of the most spectacular concert venues in South Africa, the stage framed by the backdrop of Table Mountain.
www.nbi.ac.za

5^TH CAPE OLIVE FAIR
8 - 9 December
South Africa's largest gathering of olive producers offers a delightful combination of olive oil, olives, wine, Mediterranean food, and festivity.

WAVESCAPES SURF FILM FESTIVAL
8 - 13 December
A showing of the best international and local surf films following the popular revival of big screen surf movies around the world. Venues will include outdoor screenings on the beach using South Africa's first inflatable cinema-sized screen.
www.wavescapes.co.za

CAPE ARGUS SANLAM CYCLE TOUR
10 December
Cape Town's second largest cycle tour offers a choice of 118km and 72km routes through scenic winelands and is also the final seeding event for the Cape Argus Pick & Pay Cycle Tour 2007.

CAPE SUMMER SHOW
14 - 23 December
The biggest event on the Western Cape calendar, with over 700 exhibitors, live concerts, restaurants, beer tents, an amusement park and adventure zone.
www.capeshow.co.za

GUGULETHU RECONCILIATION DAY RUN
16 December
A unique township running experience celebrating National Reconciliation Day by combining athletes of all cultures.

MOTHER CITY QUEER COSTUME PARTY
16 December
First held in 1994, Cape Town's annual MCQ Costume Party prides itself in bringing together all the various "queer tribes of Cape Town" for a grand summer bash.  This year’s theme is “It’s a circus!”
www.mcqp.co.za  

GOOD HOPE FM / VODACOM CLIFTON BEACH CHALLENGE
17 December
Clifton's trendy 4th Beach plays host once more to this challenge featuring strength, speed and fitness contests between celebrity Springbok rugby stars and the Clifton Beach lifesavers. 

ALL- AFRICA OPEN PARAGLIDING CHAMPIONSHIPS
17 – 22 December
A rare opportunity for members of the public to see serious paraglider pilots competing at one of the world's best venues.

CAPE TOWN MINSTREL CARNIVAL
31 December 2006 - 2 January 2007 TBC
Cape Town's biggest and most raucous carnival sees the city celebrating the advent of the New Year with numerous festivals, competitions and extravagant parades.

SPIER SUMMER ARTS FESTIVAL
December 2006 - March 2007
The annual summer program at Spier celebrates a proudly African line-up, presenting a diverse variety of performances.
www.spierarts.org.za

INTERNATIONAL CRICKET: SOUTH AFRICA V. INDIA
2 - 6 January 2007
The Third Test series at Newlands.
www.homeofsport.com/cricket/countries/details.aspx?id=3

SHAKESPEARE AT MAYNARDVILLE OPEN-AIR THEATRE
18 January - 17 February 2007
An annual event, inspired by the productions in London's Regent Park. On warm summer evenings many theatre-goers begin the evening by picnicking in the park before the show begins.

INTERNATIONAL CRICKET: SOUTH AFRICA V. PAKISTAN
26 January - 30 January 2007
Having taken on India just two weeks before, now the Proteas face Pakistan in the Third Test series at Newlands.
www.homeofsport.com/cricket/countries/details.aspx?id=3     

J&B MET
January 2007 TBC
The Western Cape's premier horse race.

INTERNATIONAL CRICKET: SOUTH AFRICA V. PAKISTAN ODI
11 February 2007
The Proteas face Pakistan at a one day international at Newlands.
http://www.victoryticket.co.za/Htm/sa_pakistan_fixtures.htm   

DESIGN INDABA EXPO
23 - 25 February 2007
South Africa’s premier showcase of local design from all sectors.
www.designindabaexpo.com

CAPE TOWN PRIDE
17-26 February 2007 TBC
Africa's Mardi Gras.