Just because Brad Pitt and Nicolas Cage have done it is not a good reason.But it helps.I’d had an invitation to go shark-diving, and it occurred to me that if the sharks didn’t show up, it might be nice if there was a celebrity on board to gape at instead.
The thing is, as a diver I have seen quite a few sharks already.I remember being terrified at the thought of my first encounter until, after about 30 dives, I came within a few metres of a pair of white-tip reef sharks. Floundering around in my ungainly scuba gear I gawped at these exquisite creatures, so effortlessly perfect, dominating their own realm. They sliced through the water and disappeared into the gloom beyond visibility.But they were still out there, and that knowledge was a major part of the thrill. I was bitten, so to speak.
Great Whites, however, are not the type of shark seen on the average dive.In order to get a decent viewing of this most renowned of predators there is one good place to head for – Gansbaai.Located about two and a half hours east of Cape Town and just down the coast from the famous whale-spotting town of Hermanus, Gansbaai is an ordinary coastal village, or would be if it wasn’t for the fact that Great Whites are attracted to the area in their hundreds.The odd thing is, nobody seems to quite know why.Gary Larson would no doubt depict the sharks as tourists jostling to see humans in cages.(A chicken and egg situation?Guess who is the more chicken...)
It was a short ride out from the harbour to a nook of the bay where other dive boat operators were already in place. In the past, sharks were lured by the delightfully named ‘chumsicles’ – a frozen barrel of fish bits on a rope.This is no longer allowed in South Africa, where the deliberate feeding of sharks is illegal.In fact, I read somewhere that “other illegal activities include towing human or surfboard decoys to get sharks to breach; allowing clients to climb on a whale carcass while sharks feed on it; and throwing gumballs into sharks' mouths.”What???
Given their low-carb, gumball-free diet, dive boat operators instead dribble a rather potent fishy soupinto the current, relying on the scent to draw in the sharks like children in a Bisto advert.A knee-sized clump of meat on the end of a rope is then used to entice them the last few metres to the cage.Research seems to show that sharks, while attracted by the smell, soon learn that it is unlikely to lead to a good feasting, and that therefore they are not conditioned to associate boats and humans with food.As Gerald, our skipper, explained, even if they did bite the meat on the rope it would be like a cheese biscuit to them.I kept my mouth shut, having knowingly gorged myself to capacity on cheese biscuits more than once.
Instead I studied the cage.I had imagined that we would enter it one or possibly two at a time, and that the cage would then be fully closed and totally immersed in the water.There, in my mind's eye, we would sit, breathing nervously through our scuba equipment, alone in a silent half-lit world waiting, waiting, waiting, eyes roving, trying to look everywhere yet unable to focus on anything in the gloom... until suddenly a pair of vast jaws powered by sheer muscle would scream past and in just a couple of searing, pounding heartbeats be gone.
The reality was rather different.We were all given good thick wetsuits and boots and the only other kit appeared to be weightbelts and masks.Not even a snifter of a snorkel was to be seen, let alone scuba gear.This had been explained to me over the phone, but I was still unclear about how exactly it all worked.Once we’d anchored, the cage was lowered from the stern and attached to the side of the boat with its top glaringly, blindingly open.There were 15 of us in the boat. Four at a time, those of us who chose to would climb into the cage and brace ourselves against the bars in a sitting position with our backs to the boat and our heads above water.When a shark was near Gerald would shout, and we’d take a deep breath and plunge ourselves under the surface to snatch a look as the shark cruised by.
It was, in the event, an incredibly efficient method for allowing as many people as possible a good ‘shark experience’.The water was icy cold and the visibility was only about 2 metres, but the system worked and time and time again a shark would slide by the cage, coolly eyeing the inhabitants. I’m not entirely convinced that those in the water always had a better view than those watching from the boat, but it was certainly intense.In a couple of instances, the shark would ram the cage and the divers would rattle around like gherkins in a jar.Rather appropriate, really.
Some of my fellow punters were blown away by it all and couldn’t get enough.Others clambered out after one or two encounters, not wanting to spoil the experience with overexposure. I was somewhere in between, staying my allotted 20 minutes in the cage but refusing the option of a second or third turn.There was plenty of action to be seen from above the waterline but as time wore on I found myself, to my shame, thinking less about the sharks and more about the cooler boxes of sandwiches and drinks in the cabin.
We saw at least 10 sharks in the space of about three hours, all remarkably different in terms of colouration and markings as well as size. Ranging from just under 2m to nearly 4m they weren’t the monsters I’d imagined (Great Whites commonly grow up to 6m) but were pretty hefty nonetheless.It was undoubtedly an education and a thrill, but I have to confess there wasn’t the adrenaline rush that I’d expected.It was fun to ‘ooh’ and ‘aah’ and shriek along with everyone else, but it disallowed the possibility of the awe that comes with comprehending the magnificence of a creature in its own environment to the exclusion of everything else.It was all too safe somehow... but how could I possibly wish it otherwise?
Overall, it is a trip I would recommend particularly to those who haven’t had the opportunity to see sharks before.What I didn’t expect is that I’d be able to recommend it as a trip for all the family.Unless you are the type who likes to sit on floating whale carcasses, that is.As Nicolas Cage wrote in the visitor’s book, “Thanks for a Wonderful Life experience.”Cheers, Nic.Have a gumball.
Daisy was a guest of White Shark Projects, a world-leading organisation focusing on the Great White Shark. For more information, go to www.whitesharkprojects.co.za . To book, contact Daisy on the email address above.
White Shark Projects operates every day of the year, weather permitting, though April to December is considered ‘shark season’.Trips cost R 1 000 per person (£ 77, € 114, US$ 150) or R 1 200 per person including a transfer from Cape Town (£ 92, € 136, US$ 180). Children under 12 are not allowed in the cage.
Now here’s a remarkable thing: a slick, modern, minimalist villa of the type more normally seen in Camps Bay but instead surrounded by garden and bordered by forest, mountain, golf course and vineyards in upmarket Constantia.Not only that, but it is one of few houses still available for Christmas as the owners have only just decided to let it out.
Such a unusual occasion warrants an unusual deal.Anyone who is interested in taking this house over the Christmas and New Year period is invited to place a bid for what they feel it is worth to them.You can’t get fairer than that, can you?
This wonderful property sits in over an acre of its own grounds, soaking up views that stretch all the way to the False Bay coast and for nearly 360º around.
The master bedroom is a vast glass box on the top of the house.The only reason to draw the curtains is to keep out the morning light... there is no-one to see in.This master bedroom links to what is known as ‘the children’s wing’ – a further three bedrooms with two bathrooms.On the other side is another wing housing the guest bedroom and bathroom as well as a large playroom which opens out onto the deck and could be a sixth bedroom if needed.
An elegant Italian style kitchen is flanked by open-plan living areas, with a dining area in the kitchen and another one upstairs which opens onto a roof terrace.Needless to say the house is equipped with every mod-con from flat screen TVs to the latest coffee machine.
Lived in and loved by a family with three young children, this house is also very child-friendly, not just in the interior but outside where there is a large pool (with net), an in-ground trampoline and, most unusual of all, a floodlit tennis court.
The house is available from approximately 21st December to approximately 12th January.For more information or to place an offer, contact me on .
Those lovely folk at the Table Mountain Cableway are offering half price tickets for anyone travelling up the mountain in the cable car after 6pm.Quite frankly this is one of the best times to be up there anyway – no queues, breathtaking sunsets, and a chance to see the city lights in a whole new way. I’d suggest taking up a picnic and a bottle of wine, but don’t get too comfortable – the last car down leaves at 10pm.
Offer valid from 1st - 23rd December 2006, on New Years Eve and again from January 3rd - 31st January 2007. For a return ticket on the cable car, adults pay only R 60 pp and children under 18 pay R 32.50 pp.
APPLETISER SUMMER SUNSET CONCERTS AT KIRSTENBOSCH Sunday evenings 27 November 2006 – 2 April 2007 A chance to drink wine and picnic in one of the most spectacular concert venues in South Africa, the stage framed by the backdrop of Table Mountain.Key events are detailed.
www.nbi.ac.za / www.sanbi.org/frames/concertfram.htm
NICKELBACK SA TOUR
2 December
Having rocked their way round the globe, Nickleback is finally heading this way. www.5fm.co.za/events/EventsDetails.aspx?id=5856 HOUWTEG XTREME DOWNHILL (XDH)
2 - 3 December
Adrenaline-stoked action from the world’s top downhill skateboarders, streetlugers and buttboarders on the challenging and beautiful Houwteq course in the Grabouw mountains. www.sagra.co.za/events_3.htm /www.gravity-sports.com
TOUR D' WINELANDS
3 December
A 112km Mountain Bike race through the picturesque scenery of the Cape Winelands. The final seeding event for the 2007 Cycle Tour Calendar.
www.cycletour.co.za
11TH SPIER ARTS SUMMER CONCERTS SEASON
7 December - 23 March 2007
The annual summer program at Spier celebrates a proudly African line-up, presenting a diverse variety of performances. www.spierarts.org.za
WAVESCAPES SURF FILM FESTIVAL 7 - 23 December A presentation of the best international and local surf films. Venues will include outdoor screenings on the beach using South Africa's first inflatable cinema-sized screen.
www.wavescapes.co.za
THE SPECTACULAR ICE CIRCUS
8 - 17 December
Top professional Russian figure skaters perform circus acts, juggling, acrobatic stunts and clownery on ice.
www.computicket.com
VODACOM JAZZ ON THE ROCKS
9 - 10 December
Located on the rocks at Oudekraal with a stage jutting out from the beach, this event has fused the major attributes of Cape Town - sun, sea, mountains, music, food and wine. What’s not to love?
www.musol.co.za
FRANSCHHOEK NEDBANK CAP CLASSIQUE AND CHAMPAGNE FESTIVAL
9 - 10 December
A showcase for the finest of South Africa’s Cap Classique producers and acclaimed Champagne houses in the country’s gourmet capital. www.franschhoek.org.za/ChampagneFest06/mediarelease.gif
WATERSHED AT KIRSTENBOSCH
10 December
One of South Africa 's most successful international pop bands,Watershed’s last two albums won the SAMA award for Best Pop Album in 2004 and 2006.
www.sanbi.org/frames/concertfram.htm
MARC LOTTERING IN 'HALLELUJAH' 13 December – 20 January 2007 Cape Town's favourite comedian will once again share his zany perspectives on issues connected to the church - from fiery Evangelists to funerals. www.baxter.co.za/comedy.htm#hallelujah
CAPE SUMMER SHOW 14 - 23 December The biggest event on the Western Cape calendar, with over 700 exhibitors, live concerts, restaurants, beer tents, an amusement park and adventure zone.
www.capeshow.co.za
SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS OPEN – GOLF
15 - 18 December
South Africa's most prestigious golf event and the second oldest national Open in the history of the game played on some ofthe country's most spectacular courses.
GUGULETHU RECONCILIATION DAY RUN 16 December A unique township running experience celebrating National Reconciliation Day by combining athletes of all cultures.
MOTHER CITY QUEER COSTUME PARTY 16 - 17 December Cape Town's annual MCQ Party prides itself in bringing together all the various "queer tribes of Cape Town" for a grand summer bash. This year's theme is "Comic Strip!"
www.mcqp.co.za
VODACOM / GOOD HOPE FMCLIFTON BEACH CHALLENGE 17 December Clifton's 4th Beach hosts this annual challenge featuring strength, speed and fitness contests between celebrity Springbok rugby stars and the Clifton Beach lifesavers.
ALL- AFRICA OPEN PARAGLIDING CHAMPIONSHIPS 17 - 22 December A rare opportunity for members of the public to see serious paraglider pilots competing at one of the world's best venues.
www.porterville.co.za
CAROLS BY CANDLELIGHT ON CAMPS BAY BEACH
24 December
Watch the sunset and then join in a little festive sing-a-long, to remember what Christmas is all about. Everyone welcome.
GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA SA AT KIRSTENBOSCH
24 December
The 19 piece big band will be performing a special Christmas Swing concert with Miller tunes, Sinatra classics and festive favourites.
www.sanbi.org/frames/concertfram.htm
FESTIVAL OF CHARIOTS 26 - 27 December An annual event in almost every city in the world, this festival brings together people of all backgrounds to pull representations of Krishna in chariots.
www.festivalofchariots.org.za
KFM 94.5 NEW YEAR'S EVE CONCERT AT KIRSTENBOSCH
31 December
Get into the New Year groove with Cape Town singer/songwriter James Stewart and Afro-popsters Freshlyground.
www.sanbi.org/frames/concertfram.htm
NEW YEARS EVE BASH AT V&A WATERFRONT
31 December 2006 – 1 January 2007
A chance to party the night away to music performed by top local bands.
CAPE TOWN MINSTREL CARNIVAL 2 January 2007 Cape Town's biggest and most raucous carnival sees the city celebrating the advent of the New Year with numerous festivals, competitions and extravagant parades.
RONAN KEATING LIVE IN CAPE TOWN
5 - 6 January 2007
Irish superstar Ronan Keating returns to South Africa to perform and celebrate the festive season at Hamilton’s Sport’s Club in Cape Town. Details tbc.
ARNO CARSTENS AT KIRSTENBOSCH
7 January 2007
With nine Number one hit singles and five SAMA music awards for Best Album to his credit, Arno Carstens is considered ' The Godfather of SA Rock'. www.sanbi.org/frames/concertfram.htm
INTERNATIONAL CRICKET: SOUTH AFRICA V. PAKISTAN 26 January - 30 January 2007 Having taken on India just two weeks before, now the Proteas face Pakistan in the Third Test series at Newlands.
www.homeofsport.com/cricket/countries/details.aspx?id=3
GAME OUTENIQUA WHEELCHAIR CHALLENGE 17 February 2007 The premier disabled sporting event on the South African sporting calendar.
www.game-occ.co.za
DESIGN INDABA EXPO 23 - 25 February 2007 South Africa's premier showcase of local design from all sectors.
www.designindabaexpo.com
CAPE COUNTRY PICNIC FESTIVAL 23 - 25 February 2007 At the beautiful Bien Donne Farm in Simondium families are invited to picnic on the large lawns under the oak trees, amongst exhibitors and food stalls to the sound of live music.
http://www.cadek.co.za/BigEvents/picnic_festival.htm
CAPE ARGUS PICK 'N PAY MOUNTAIN BIKE CHALLENGE 2007
4 March 2007
The MTB Challenge part of the build-up to the annual Cape Argus Pick 'n’ Pay Cycle Tour.
www.mtbchallenge.co.za
SIR CLIFF RICHARD IN CONCERT
6 & 7 March 2007
One of the greatest Rock and Roll legends of all time, Sir Cliff returns to South Africa to croon to his fans at Kirstenbosch.
www.computicket.com
CAPE TOWN FESTIVAL 2007 6 - 24 March 2007 The best in original South African and international music, performance, public art, comedy, spoken word and visual arts.
www.capetownfestival.co.za
CAPE ARGUS PICK N' PAY CYCLE TOUR 11 March 2007 A highlight of every cyclist's calendar, this is the world's largest individually timed cycle race, with over 35 000 cyclists tackling a scenic 109km route around Cape Town.
www.cycletour.co.za
CAPE TOWN PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA AT KIRSTENBOSCH
11 March 2007
A commemorative concert entitled 'A Garland of Memories', celebrating the works of the composers Glinka, Grieg, Sibelius and Coates.
www.sanbi.org/frames/concertfram.htm
THE CAPE EPIC MOUNTAIN BIKE RACE 24 March - 1 April 2007 This annual race involves over 900 mountain bikers from across the globe riding more than 900 gruelling kilometres through the magnificent scenery of the Western Cape.
www.cape-epic.com
TRANS CAPE 24 March - 2 May 2007
An inaugural large-scale exhibition of contemporary art featuring more than 60 African artists from over 19 countries showing work at 24 locations across the city of Cape Town.
www.capeafrica.org/exhibition.html
CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL 30 - 31 March 2007 Formerly known as The North Sea Jazz Festival, this event is known as 'Africa's Grandest Gathering' and boasts an impressive line-up of the world's top jazz artists.
www.capetownjazzfest.com
OLD MUTUAL TWO OCEANS MARATHON EXPO
4 - 6 April 2007
The Old Mutual Marathon Expo boasts over 90 exhibitors with interactive displays.The Two Oceans Fun Run/Walk will be held on the 6 April.
www.twooceansexpo.co.za
OLD MUTUAL TWO OCEANS MARATHON
7 April 2007
The Old Mutual Two Oceans Marathon is the world's most beautiful marathon and one of the largest timed races in SA, attracting more than 20 000 participants each year.
www.twooceansmarathon.org.za
SA CHEESE FESTIVAL
27 – 30 April 2007
The chance to savour a huge array of cheeses in harmony with wine, olives, freshly-baked bread, fruit and nuts. www.cheesefestival.co.za
WELLNESS FESTIVAL
28 - 29 April 2007; 27 - 28 October 2007
A complete holistic lifestyle festival to nourish body and soul at the V&A Waterfront, with a wide variety of stalls, workshops and talks.
CAPE GOURMET FESTIVAL: GOOD FOOD AND WINE SHOW
24 – 27 May 2007
South Africa's premier food, wine and lifestyle event takes over the Mother City for a fortnight of feasting. www.gourmetsa.com