My Cape Town

The average Capetonian housewife?

When my school needed to raise money for, say, a new set of gym mats we would normally have a School Fete or perhaps a Bring and Buy Sale.  Or we might collect milk bottle tops and tin cans and the teacher would put a big cardboard thermometer on the wall so we could see just how far we still had to go.  And of course we had the annual Sponsored Walk, round and round the dried out patch of field that served as everything from a football pitch (boys) to somewhere to exercise imaginary horses at break-time (girls).  Whipped into a froth of excitement by hearing our parents call the teachers by their first names, we would pursue our goal for the Greater Good of the School by pacing as fast as we could around the fenced-in field, stopping at least twice a lap to clutch our sides and touch our toes, or in the case of those who got a little too competitive, being hauled up for daring to Break Into A Run.  Given the inherent dangers of the task – rabbit holes, mole hills, overhanging branches and the like, it is possible that such activities are no longer allowed at that school, or at least not until the risk assessments have been filled in triplicate.  Imagine the outcry if a minor should cut himself or herself through the careless handling of a milk bottle top!

One of the many things I love about South Africans is that they simply don’t worry about such things. In the Southern Suburbs Tatler recently I came across an article about an annual event to raise funds for a local special needs school. Participants will swim 7.5 kilometres (7.5 kilometres – that’s nearly 4.5 miles!) in the Atlantic waters from Robben Island to Bloubergstrand.  Not only is the water pretty darn icy, but I must confess the words ‘shark-infested’ spring to mind. But swim it they will, 90 individuals tackling the whole stretch, and 10 relay teams making a total of 140 people.  Good luck to them all.

Capetonians on the whole are an incredibly healthy and sporty bunch.  Scratch the flawless surface of even the primmest housewife and I warrant you’ll discover an inclination for rock-climbing, white-water canoeing, mountain-biking and bungee-jumping in between coffee mornings.

So it was that, in a bid to awaken the sporty soul that is hiding somewhere deep deep within me, I went riding last week.  During the pony-mad days of my youth (yes, I was the proud owner of a whole herd of imaginary horses) I was a regular visitor to Mrs Juhl’s Riding School in Wenden’s Ambo.  Eyes streaming with hay fever and snot caking the sleeves of my second-hand riding jacket I would perch happily astride Magic Rainbow or Misty Dawn or some other optimistically named pony and endeavour to keep my heels down and my back straight as we plodded around and around, nose to tail. And that, pretty much, was the basis of my experience – one hour once a week over two decades ago.  And yet there I was on the phone to the Sleepy Hollow Riding Centre declaring breezily, ‘Oh yes, a competent rider...’

Luckily I had a PIA (Partner in Adventure)  with similar experience backing up her claim as Horsewoman of the Year.  I’d last seen Ros when we shared a room at school 13 years ago.  Due to a little catching up the previous night, neither of us were quite as bright-eyed as we meant to be for our equine extravaganza. Having headed out against the early morning commuter traffic we were just 20 minutes from the city centre and yet now we stood, sunglasses firmly in place, in the middle of a ridiculously idyllic country scene.  The sun was just above the mountain and there was still a coolness to the morning air though the promise of heat hung in the glare from the whitewashed walls of the farm buildings. Dogs sprawled in the dust, cats eyed the week-old chicks as they scattered around their fluffed up mothers, ducks and geese shuffled in from the pond and a small boy in a smock carried clanking milk pails on a yoke (OK, not that last bit).  Kate was our ride leader, and in our somewhat fragile state we couldn’t have wished for someone more friendly and relaxed.  She was astute too, and ensured we understood what we were doing, before she introduced us to our glossy mounts, saddled and waiting for us on the other side of the hen house.

The ride was utterly glorious.  Once out of the farm gate, we meandered along a sandy path lined at first with small fields and then with tall bulrushes that would thin occasionally to provide a glimpse of the mountains in the distance.  Kate stood in her stirrups and twisted around to chat and to keep an eye on us as we gazed slack-jawed at the scene around us.  And then we reached the beach.  Not just any beach this, but the wide wild sweeping expanse of Noordhoek beach, framed at the north end by the dramatic Chapman’s Peak.  I have always longed to canter along on a sandy beach, the wind whipping my hair and the salt spray stinging my face.  Ben, my mount, had other plans and stood four-square, gazing into the distance.  Hoofie, Ros’s fine steed, faced the opposite way but with the same intent.  But canter we did, eventually, and with a lot of encouragement from Kate. It wasn’t a fast canter, and probably looked rather comical to the handful of other people on the beach but this time I wasn’t an onlooker.  I was fulfilling a dream, and it was marvellous.

Latest Cheap Flights

KLM are flying to Cape Town from many airports in the UK from as little as £320 (before tax).  Click on this link  and look for the first special offer mentioned. Once in, click on Cape Town and then try various combinations of the red squares for your dates.  It’ll make sense when you see it!  But be quick, they are moving fast.

A 33% discount applies to children under 12, and a 90% discount for babies and toddlers under 2 years old.  The offer is valid until September.

SPECIAL OFFER - Ancient Art and Relaxation

Bushmans Kloof – Step back in time

Just a  few hundred miles north of the lush landscape of Cape Town the scenery is arid and dramatic.  Here, amongst  immense open plains, deep ravines, spectacular waterfalls and prehistoric rock formations lies an ecological oasis, nestled between the majestic mountains of the Cederberg and the vast plains of the Great Karoo.
 
Bushmans Kloof has frequently been the receiver of prestigious awards, both local and international. The lodge is a luxurious 5-star Relais & Châteaux retreat that offers a sanctuary for relaxing, discovering, healing and restoring, as well as a safe and protected shelter for wildlife and many endangered species of flora and fauna.  It is also the proud custodian to over 130 documented rock-art sites, from one of mankind’s earliest civilizations, the San Bushmen. In recognition of its dedication to the preservation and conservation of their rich cultural history of this ancient land, Bushmans Kloof has been awarded South African Natural Heritage Status.

Guided tours of the rock-art are given daily, in addition to botanical tours, game viewing and sunset game drives in open game viewing vehicles.  Guests can also try out bird watching, nature trails, mountain hikes, river walks, canoeing, archery, rock climbing, mountain biking, croquet, swimming in crystal clear natural rock pools, or indulge themselves with a treatment in the resort's world-class spa.

A three night stay at Bushmans Kloof normally costs R12,000 per person sharing, including scenic flights from Cape Town, accommodation in a luxury room, all meals and drinks as well as all standard excursions and activities.  Subscribers to the Cape Concierge newsletter can get the same package for just R8,400 per person sharing.

Offer valid until the end of July.  For more information about this package or the Gourmet Food & Wine Weekends or Family Breaks also on offer at Bushmans Kloof, contact daisy@capeconcierge.co.za .

For exchange rates click here .

Up, Up and Away

The most difficult part of joining a balloon safari is having the courage to throw off the duvet in the middle of the night.  In summer it's a very early alarm call to get to the rendezvous point in time for the sunrise take-off.  At the Balloon Base, most of the passengers (including me and my wife Belinda) have that "the lights are on but nobody's home" look.

Captain Bill Harrop, an engaging and slightly eccentric fellow, has inbuilt powers of pre-dawn chirp. His eyes are bright and alert under the deerstalker and there's a ready smile amidst the abundance of greying whiskers.  We see the crew unfurling the thousands upon thousands of square metres of polyurethane material as they start the inflation process using a huge fan, before blasting tongues of flame into the "envelope". Hesitantly the kaleidoscope of colours billows into a more recognisable form above the basket.

Coffee and tea are served after we have been given our flight tickets and assigned to one of the balloons. After an introduction to our respective Captain, it's time to board. The two German tourists seem quite relaxed. The same cannot be said for a lady from Ireland who has been given a ticket as a birthday present. She casts nervous glances at the large wicker basket in tow and whispers to her friend that she'll "get even" for this...

No doors into this wicker basket. You clamber over the side. The Balloon Safaris brochure did say that clients should have some degree of agility - although passengers from age 3 to 92 have travelled with this unusual airline.  Here there’s no high-pitched revving of jet engines at the top of the runway.  With hardly a creak from the rattan and wicker basket, we are airborne and drifting over the adjacent tar road - so low we can see the drivers' expressions as they peer up through their windscreens.  As we hover over a smallholding, the lady of the house emerges in gown and curlers for an early morning chat. It seems like midday, but it's just a shade after 6am.

Still flying low, we catch a clear reflection of our balloon in a meandering river. Then the skipper decides it's time to pile on the propane, soar to the clouds and enjoy a bird's-eye view of the wraparound panorama.  That's also when the champagne is uncorked... and then the poetic descriptions and philosophies flow more easily.  "Some say it's the closest thing to Heaven known to man, serenely suspended as you are high above the countryside, with nothing but the silence of space and air around you. A rather elegant adventure in space and time." That's the Harrop description.

It is an extraordinary feeling, rather like standing still in the sky while the earth is pulled gently beneath you on a string. The slowly rising sun creates some dazzling effects as it filters through the scattered clouds and Bill points out a rare sight: our shadow clearly marked on a cloud below, with a rainbow aura around the basket.While we marvel at the wonders of nature from our gondola on high, the retrieve crew has to chase the balloon over some dodgy terrain. It's comforting to spot their 44 and minibus; we've been up nearly an hour and we're about to undergo landing.

After all our practice drills of bent knees and special grips on the rope handles, our landing on a large grassy field is a breeze. And that's just what tips the basket over after I've hopped out. So the rest of the crew crawl out on all fours - complete with puppy-dog smiles.

It has been an exhilarating trip - despite the fact that ballooning is one of the slowest and most expensive modes of transport available. So what if we could have run the distance in about 30 minutes? We had skimmed the treetops, shouted greetings to the locals, soared high among the clouds and pondered about earthlife from our suspended perch.  And who is raving the most about this sensational safari at the champagne breakfast afterwards? That's right, the nervous visitor from Ireland. She now thinks that ballooning is just the ticket.

Ballooning Safaris are available throughout Southern Africa.  In the Western Cape, there are two operations with which I am in touch - one based in Paarl (flying over the winelands) and one in Oudtshoorn (flying over the semi-desert of the Klein Karoo).  For more information, please contact me on daisy@capeconcierge.co.za .

Upcoming Events

THE CAPE EPIC
2 - 9 April
This second annual epic mountain bike race involves 800 mountain bikers from 29 countries riding more than 900 gruelling kilometres through the magnificent scenery of the Western Cape.

GLOBAL CHALLENGE OCEAN RACE - CAPE TOWN STOPOVER
4 April - 1 May
The world's toughest yacht race! The sight of Table Mountain will signal the end of arguably the toughest leg of this race the ‘wrong way’ round the world. Cape Town, known for centuries as ‘the tavern of the seas’, will have no trouble helping the crews to recharge their batteries. 

NEDERBURG WINE AUCTION
8 & 9 April
Considered one of the top five wine auctions internationally, labels bearing the words 'sold at the Nederburg Auction' are regarded as seals of approval by both licensees and their customers.

WESTLIFE LIVE IN CAPE TOWN
8 April
Part of the boy band's world tour.

SOWETO STRING QUARTET
10 April
The international award winning quartet will be performing at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens for the 6th year running.

QUEEN AT THE BALLET
30 April - 15 May
Back by popular demand! Cape Town City Ballet's smash hit returns to Cape Town. Revel in the music of Queen and marvel at the beauty and athleticism of the CTCB dancers, performing Sean Bovim's inventive choreography.

WATERFRONT WINE FESTIVAL
3 - 6 May
And with more than 350 wines to taste, this festival provides a dream time for lovers of fine wines and good cheeses.

PRINCE ALBERT OLIVE FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL
6 - 7 May
Lots of exciting and varied activities, walks, tours and competitions, plenty of food demonstrations and tastings and evening entertainment from stories to cabaret to dancing.

CAPE GOURMET FESTIVAL
6 - 22 May
A fortnight of feasting as Cape Town's finest eateries swing open their doors and set decadent gourmet menus, paired with Laborie wines to get the tastebuds tingling, and all for the price of a king prawn in London. 

AVRIL LAVIGNE LIVE IN CONCERT
18 May
The Canadian songstrel hits the Cape for one night on her world tour.
 
RED BULL BWA (BIG WAVE AFRICA) 2005
22 May - 12 June
A 20 day surfing spectacle, when renowned international and local big wave surfers converge on Hout Bay to ride waves in excess of 15' (5 metres).

THE PINK LOERIE CARNIVAL
26 - 29 May
Knysna turns pink for this annual festival.  With live shows, art displays and a carnival atmosphere, Knysna celebrates the freedom embedded in the South African constitution.

GARDEN ROUTE GOURMET FESTIVAL
16 - 18 June
Good food & wine on the Garden Route.

CROSS KAROO EXTREME TRIATHLON CHALLENGE
16 June – 16 July
Run 88kms from Durban to Pietermaritzburg, Mountain Bike 2200 kms to Paarl, and canoe 208 kms along the Berg River to Velddrif on the Atlantic Coast. Yikes.

TULBAGH CELEBRATES CHRISTMAS IN WINTER
25 - 26 June
Christmas lights, Christmas dinners, wine tasting, gluwein, beer gardens, sport bars, art & crafts exhibitions, stalls…

BERG RIVER CANOE MARATHON
12 - 16 July
208 kilometres over 4 days  - South Africa’s longest and toughest canoe race, from the Paarl winelands to the Velddrif Coast: an area rich in history and scenic beauty.
 
POSTBERG RESERVE OPENS FOR FLOWER GAZING
1 August  – 30 September
An hour’s drive from Cape Town along the West Coast will bring you to this floral paradise. This spectacular display of nature in the 30 000 hectares of the West Coast National Park is only open for August and September.

TRI NATIONS RUGBY (SOUTH AFRICA V NEW ZEALAND)
6 August
The Springboks take on the All Blacks in this classic clash at Newlands.
 
CAPE TOWN FASHION WEEK 2005
10 - 13 August
Fifty top designers from South Africa and the rest of the continent showcase their top work in this glamorous and glitzy high profile fashion event in the International Convention Centre.

CLANWILLIAM WILDFLOWER SHOW
25 - 31 August
The Clanwilliam district boasts a large variety of wildflowers due to the tremendous differences in the topography (Cederberg Karoo, Sandveld and wetlands). Each year about 350 flower species from 32 families are exhibited at the show.

DARLING WILDFLOWER SHOW
6 - 18 September
The Darling Wildflower Society has held a show virtually every year since its inception in 1917.

STELLENBOSCH FESTIVAL
23 September - 1 October
The old university town of Stellenbosch comes alive with festivities as it incorporates three large festivals - Music and Art, Simon van der Stel and Food and Wine - into one big community festival.

KIRSTENBOSCH SUMMER SUNSET CONCERTS
Every Sunday until 3 April
A chance to drink wine and picnic in one of the most spectacular concert venues in South Africa, if not the world.

SPIER SUMMER ARTS FESTIVAL
until 2 April
The annual summer program at Spier Wine Estate celebrates a proudly African line-up, presenting a diverse variety of performances including music, theatre, film, comedy and the famous sunset Christmas carols.