My Cape Town

Last Sunday night I was Elvis, a-shakin’ and a-jivin’ on a spotlit stage.  Such was the power of my dancing that even the floorboards were rattling and the crowd was going wild, screaming for more. I could have danced for them all night, but it was dawning on me that my knee wasn’t going to hold out that long – already it was getting a little sore from being knocked so relentlessly against the other.  As the image of the dream faded (alas, yes) its soundtrack clarified and became a very loud, continuous knocking noise sending shockwaves through the air around me so that not just my knee but my whole body was shake-rattle-and-rolling.  The walls, the windows, the whole house was reverberating and now, suddenly wide awake, I leapt out of bed and skidded to the window in time to see the tail of the helicopter as it skimmed over our roof. 

For Capetonians the regular whump-whump of helicopters in the air is a herald of summer.  Fire is apparently essential for the national flower of South Africa, the magnificent protea, to release its seeds and produce new growth.   This miracle of nature means that fires on the mountain are a regular occurrence at this dry time of year and a team of helicopter pilots is constantly on stand-by to scoop water from the harbour to dump on the flames.  Presumably it is a job that becomes fairly mundane after a while for those involved but for onlookers it is wonderfully dramatic, even if it does entail a beeline over your bed at seven in the morning.

Yes, summer is here and the fact it coincides with Christmas makes South Africans doubly determined to party.  Craft fairs overlap with festivals overlap with concerts; stages are set up in the middle of streets and on the beach; droves of leather-clad bikers do the annual Toy Run for charity; carols spill out from the churches and the town gardens and the wine estates; and everyone falls about laughing as we hear on the radio those lyrical words of wisdom “And there won’t be snow in Africa this Christmas..”

Instead of snow in Cape Town we have blossom and I know I’ve written about it before but it just continues to blow me away.  After all, how many people can say that at a rock concert their view of the stage was obscured by hundreds of agapanthus blooms?  I was at Kirstenbosch along with thousands who’d trekked in with hampers and rugs and baskets to sit sipping wine in the late afternoon sunshine as the shadow of the mountain crept across the immaculate lawns.  How much more civilised can you be? 

Neill and I celebrated Christmas morning with a walk on the beach at Camps Bay, admiring the surfers and sniggering at the tourists struggling to get changed under their beach towels.  Later we took a picnic over the mountain to Noordhoek Beach, a five mile stretch of white sand bordered by wetlands and framed by the dramatic Chapman’s Peak at one end and Kommetjie Lighthouse at the other.  Compared to Camps Bay with its strip of shops and restaurants and bars and its hawkers of sun loungers and beach umbrellas and cold drinks, the beach at Noordhoek felt like another planet.  The tide was way out and from our picnic rug amongst the dunes we could never see more than a couple of people at a time, with every now and again a rider cantering along the waters’ edge.  With a bottle of fabulous South African bubbly, cheese and baguettes and a juicy pineapple it was a far cry from the traditional rowdy family Christmas I adore but I must say it was absolute bliss.

It’s a friend’s birthday next week and the plan is for a party on another beach - Kommetjie this time - starting with that wonderful South African tradition of sundowners.  It’s fancy dress – anything beginning with E.  Time to hunt down those blue suede shoes….

I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas and we very much look forward to seeing you in 2005.

Daisy

The inside edge on booking flights

Since Cape Concierge doesn’t stretch to making international flight reservations, the least we can do is offer you some hints and tips on where to start.  I’ve always found www.travelbag.co.uk an extremely efficient website, and www.cheapflights.co.uk  is a good starting point for travellers on a budget.  If your dates are at all flexible, www.klm.com has a very straightforward calendar page, indicating the availability on particular routes, and the relative costs each day.  For instance, if you were thinking of coming to Cape Town from London in February, you can see at a glance for which dates your ticket type (economy, business etc.) is still available.

Qatar Airways has tickets to Cape Town from as little as £349 return.  This relatively new airline operates from a tiny country bordering Saudi Arabia, the UAE and Bahrain.  It flies from most European capitals and has received rave reviews for its service.  On the down side, however, all flights to Cape Town go via Doha and Johannesburg, making for a very long journey.

Cricket at Newlands

Cricket fans - don’t forget the South Africa v England One Day International at Newlands on Sunday 6th February. You could of course turn up the heating at home, kick the dog off the armchair and watch it on television, but if you yearn to hear the smack of leather against willow while basking under glorious sunny South African skies, there are still a few tickets available. Just drop me a line and I’ll see what I can do for you. And then there’s the Test match between South Africa and Zimbabwe on 4th March…

Stay for more than 90 days

Overseas visitors who wish to stay in South Africa for longer than the 90 days granted upon entry have two ways of extending their stay – the Retired Person Permit (RPP) and the Long Term Visitor Permit (LTVP).

Any applicant who meets the financial criteria can apply for an RPP.  The applicant does not have to prove that he is retired nor is there a minimum age requirement.  In order to meet the financial requirements, an applicant must receive a pension with a minimum value of R20,000 a month, or an irrevocable retirement annuity or retirement account to the equivalent amount.  Alternatively, an applicant shall possess a net worth of R12 million.  Assets do not have to be transferred into South Africa and all worldwide assets are taken into account.  In the case of couples, both persons have to fulfil the requirements.

The RRP can be issued for four years and is renewable. It entitles its holder to sojourn in South Africa on a seasonal or continuous basis.

The LTVP may be issued for a maximum of three years.  The permit holder is not allowed to work in South Africa.  An applicant has to prove financial means of R15,000 a month.  Couples must prove means of R30,000 a month.  For applicants who own property in South Africa, the financial hurdles can be lowered.  The monthly incomes may include rental value up to R10,000 of housing owned by the applicant.  The funds must be certified by a local chartered accountant.

When deciding between these permits, no real preference can be given. The granting period and application fees at the Department of Home Affairs is the same for both permits.  The RPP does not require a certificate from a chartered accountant, so is therefore more cost-effective and the holder can stay in South Africa for four, not three, years without applying for a renewal.  However, due to the current interpretation of the Department of Home Affairs, the financial thresholds are high.

SPECIAL OFFER

The awesome River Lodge has a special offer of R1300 per night for a week or more between 8th and 21st February.  At a capacity of 6 people, that works out as roughly £140 each for a week’s accommodation in this stunning private retreat. Check it out on the following link: http://www.capeconcierge.co.za/Accommodation/accommodation_detail.asp?acc_Id=47

Upcoming Events

KIRSTENBOSCH SUMMER SUNSET CONCERTS
Every Sunday until 3 April
A chance to drink wine and picnic in one of the most spectacular concert venues in South Africa, if not the world.

SPIER SUMMER ARTS FESTIVAL
until 2 April
The annual summer program at Spier Wine Estate celebrates a proudly African line-up, presenting a diverse variety of performances including music, theatre, film, comedy and the famous sunset Christmas carols.

THIRD TEST: SOUTH AFRICA v ENGLAND
2 - 6 January
South Africa take on England at Newlands in Cape Town in the third Test of a five-match series. Tickets now available for grass only.

SHAKESPEARE AT MAYNARDVILLE OPEN-AIR THEATRE
January and February
An annual event, inspired by the productions in London's Regent Park. On warm summer evenings many theatre-goers begin the evening by picnicking in the park before the show begins.

CAPE TO RIO RACE
Starting 11 January 
One of the biggest events of the international sailing calendar, the record for this 3,600 mile crossing stands at 12½ days.

CAPE FEST WORLD MUSIC FESTIVAL
9 - 13 January
A five-day musical celebration featuring 36 top South African and international bands performing at the beautiful Mnandi Beach Resort, where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet and Table Mountain provides a dramatic backdrop.

J&B MET
29 January
The Western Cape’s premier horse race.

ONE DAY INTERNATIONAL: SOUTH AFRICA v ENGLAND
6 February
South Africa take on England in this One-Day International at Newlands in Cape Town, the fourth of a seven-match series.

AQUA OPERA
10 February
This annual floating opera spectacle features the Cape Philharmonic Orchestra, a massed choir and some of Cape Town’s hottest vocal talent and rising opera stars.

WOMEN’S WORLD CUP OF GOLF
11 - 13 February
On the fabulous courses of Fancourt on the Garden Route from Cape Town, where the Nelson Mandela Invitational Tournament was held in November 2004.

CAPE TOWN PRIDE
18 - 27 February
Nelson Mandela’s new constitution, when he swept away Apartheid and ushered in South African democracy in 1994, included the all important "freedom of sexual orientation" clause.  This 10 day celebration is considered Africa’s Mardi Gras.

NEDERBURG WINE AUCTION - TASTINGS
28 February
A chance for the public to taste the wines on auction in April.

REM IN CONCERT
3 March
The launch of the South African leg of the supergroup’s World Tour to promote their new album ’Around the Sun’.

CAPE TOWN FESTIVAL
6 - 25 March
Featuring the best in original South African and international music, performance, public art, comedy, spoken word and visual arts, this festival provides a rich slice of culture for all generations to enjoy.

CAPE ARGUS PICK ’N’ PAY CYCLE TOUR
14 March
The biggest timed cycle tour in the world. The 105km tour around the beautiful Cape Peninsula takes place every year and attracts over 35,000 entrants from all over the world.

OLD MUTUAL TWO OCEANS MARATHON
26 March (Easter Saturday)
This popular annual event features a 56km ultra-marathon and, for those who don’t fancy mixing with the professionals, a shorter 21.1km race as well.

THE CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL
26 & 27 March
The Cape Town International Jazz Festival (formerly known as The North Sea Jazz Festival) is officially dubbed 'Africa's Grandest Gathering' and boasts an impressive line-up of the world's top jazz artists.

RED BULL DOWNHILL EXTREME RACE
tbc March
An annual event in which international in-line skaters, skate boarders, and street luge pilots fling themselves down the spectacular Kloofnek road leading to Clifton's beaches at speeds in excess of 100km/h. The 1.7km course is one of the most extreme on the international calendar and the event has historically drawn more than 22,000 spectators.

THE CAPE EPIC
2 - 9 April
This second annual epic mountain bike race involves 800 mountain bikers from 29 countries riding more than 900 gruelling kilometres  through the magnificent scenery of the Western Cape.

NEDERBURG WINE AUCTION
8 & 9 April
Considered one of the top five wine auctions internationally, labels bearing the words 'sold at the Nederburg Auction' are regarded as seals of approval by both licensees and their customers.

RED BULL BWA (BIG WAVE AFRICA) 2005
22 May - 12 June
A 20 day surfing spectacle, when renowned international and local big wave surfers converge on Hout Bay to ride waves in excess of 15' (5 metres).

CAPE GOURMET FESTIVAL
26 - 29 May
A fortnight of feasting as Cape Town's finest eateries swing open their doors and set decadent gourmet menus, paired with Laborie wines, to get the tastebuds tingling. 

THE PINK LOERIE CARNIVAL
26 - 29 May
Knysna turns pink for this annual festival.  With live shows, art displays and a carnival atmosphere, Knysna celebrates the freedom embedded in the South African constitution.