My Cape Town

Lonely and neglected, Candy was sitting in a dark corner of a Chinese army depot when Tim Clarke first set eyes on her.  Instantly smitten, he resolved to make her acquaintance.  He was sure that given time he could coax some life into her and restore the pride and vitality she’d clearly once enjoyed.

She was to become part of a veritable flotilla of escorts working for Tim, joined by Lolita, Blossom, Gypsey and others, 20 in total. Those were Tim’s names for them.  The People’s Liberation Army for whom they had formerly worked had referred to them collectively as the Chang Jiang 750s.

And yes they were, and thanks to Tim still are, sidecars.  A version of the 1938 BMW R71 (for the anoraks out there) the CJ750s had been manufactured exclusively for the Chinese army since the mid-fifties to pre-World War II BMW specifications.

Earlier this month the weather changed overnight from winter to summer.  It was the most gloriously clear, balmy day when Tim called to offer me a ride in Candy.  “When?” I asked.  “How about now?” he suggested in true Capetonian fashion.  Turning my eyes from the dark clutter of my desk to the bright warmth outside my window I rapidly agreed.

My chauffeur was Lee, who could not have been more friendly.  Having kitted me out in a rather fetching leather jacket, an authentic pair of goggles and a ridged leather helmet that made my pea-sized head look like an oversized walnut, he swung Candy around and we headed towards the hills.

As we travelled up the ever-lively Long Street, people wound down their windows to talk to us or just to give us a thumbs-up, and on the corner an old coloured man in a shabby suit gave us a crisp salute.  At the cable car station – open for the first time after a few windy days - the snaking queue of tourists goggled as we vroomed past.  I lapped it up, trying to look as cool as an extra-large walnut can.  This was great.  I felt like I’d just dropped out of the past to come and deliver some lasting moral to the lacklustre people of the future.  I wouldn’t have been surprised if I’d been in sepia but no, it was just that the world around me was extra bright and colourful.

Most people go no further along that road than the cable car station.  In fact it continues for another couple of miles and offers spectacular views over the city below and the sea beyond.  The sun bounced off Candy’s shiny paint as we took the road less travelled, whooping as each new vista came into sight.  I took a short video not for the memory of the sights, but to capture the thrum of the engine, the thrill of its guttural purr.

I’d intended for that to be the extent of my little outing – to turn around at the end of the road and head homewards to my desk.  But as Lee pointed out, it really was a most magnificent day.  It would be criminal not to make the most of it.  So we hurtled down the long scenic road that winds its way down the side of Table Mountain to Camps Bay where, leaving Candy on the pavement in the eager care of five different parking attendants, I introduced Lee to the best ice cream this side of Italy.  We ate it sitting on our leather jackets on the beach, watching the world go by.  Another tough day in Cape Town then.

I asked Tim for his most memorable sidecar tale, and he took me back to his first encounters with them when he was running a chain of pubs in Shanghai.  “I needed to empty out one of my pubs in the early hours one Sunday morning and offered to take everyone on an alternative tour of Shanghai. Five of us piled on Amanda (my sidecar at the time) and launched forth into the dark warmth of an early Shanghai morning.  We cruised the alleys, highways, tunnels and bridges. We caught the river ferry, heckled at the pervs along the red light streets, visited the early morning flower market and eventually ended up on the banks of the Pudong river watching the sun rise....

“There have been many other memorable moments,  but cruising over Chapman’s Peak in a sidecar on a windless, sunny morning never fails to take my breath away.”

Now be honest, couldn’t your life do with a little bit on the side?

Daisy

Cape Sidecars can be hired with a chauffeur, or as a self-drive option for those with a big-bike licence.  There is room for a driver and two passengers (one riding pillion).  There is even a spacious boot with room for a picnic - though presumably that is not the use to which the Chinese army put them. Rentals start at ½ day tours and can go up to extended multi-day rentals for those intrepid explorers who just can’t get enough. A full day costs £100 (€145 or US$195) for a chauffeured sidecar or £50 (€73 or US$ 98) for a self-drive option.

Hotel of the Month

Avondrood ("Red Evening") takes its name from the glorious sunsets in the Franschhoek valley. Offering just five rooms in a house that combines Victorian style with Cape Dutch influence, this boutique guesthouse offers warm hospitality and personal service in a beautiful setting.  The Belgian owner/managers, Rudi and Lutgard, are a young couple who have fallen head over heels in love with the area, and their enthusiasm is inspiring, spilling over into every aspect of their new lives.

Lying just 45 minutes east of Cape Town, Franschhoek is renowned not only for its staggering beauty, but for its vibrant café life and gourmet restaurants.  Situated on the edge of the village, Avondrood remains a quiet and private retreat whilst being within close walking distance of all that is hip and happening on the main strip.

The main living areas of the house are paved in flagstone for coolness in the heat of summer.  Although large and airy, they are designed to have various focal points so that guests can happily make corners their own.  The same applies to the garden which, although dominated by a smooth, rolling lawn, has various nooks in which visitors can settle themselves with a good book and a glass of wine after an appetising lunch at one of Franschhoek’ s famous restaurants.  

The bedrooms, like the rest of the house, are enormously spacious, as are each of the en-suite bathrooms.  All the rooms open onto the garden and the magnificent mountain views, and all are equipped with air-conditioning, a king-size bed, TV, minibar, and a safe for valuables. The bathrooms have under-floor heating as well as a separate bath and shower.  Decoration throughout the guesthouse is individual, with a sumptuous Indonesian influence.  Many of the pieces have quite a history, which Lutgard and Rudi will happily relate. 

Avondrood has rooms from just £62 (€93 or US$120) per night on a bed and breakfast basis.  The whole house is available from £385 (€585 or US$745) per night.  Children by arrangement.

Breaking news...

It’s a tough call, but of the four Desmonds* I think Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu is perhaps the most revered, and deservedly so.  I’m very excited, because I’m just about to go and see him in the flesh at the Homeless World Cup, where he will be making a speech about the legacy of this fabulous event.

I urge anyone currently in Cape Town to drop in at the pitches at the Grand Parade if you have time this weekend.  It’s a great atmosphere, entry is free, and you’ll be supporting an excellent cause that has helped thousands of people worldwide.  For those of you who can’t make it, I hope to bring you a report in the next issue.
Go to www.streetsoccer.org / www.bigissue.org.za for more information.
* Decker, Llewelyn, Lynam and Tutu (of course)

And for anyone inspired to head this way soon, get booking!  The Rand is rallying slowly after a sharp drop in the past couple of weeks, making South Africa a fantastic bargain if you are quick off the draw…

Upcoming Events

ROCKING THE DAISIES MUSIC FESTIVAL
29 September – 1 October
A weekend of music and comedy amongst the flowers of the West Coast.  Featuring The Parlotones, The Finkelsteins, Dirty Skirts, Goldfish, The Rudimentals and a whole lot more.
www.rockingthedaisies.com

KIRSTENBOSCH WINTER WARMER CONCERTS
7 May - 29 October
Cape Town's top musical talent will be performing in the warmth and comfort of the Silvertree Restaurant at Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden on Sundays this winter.

STELLENBOSCH MUSIC FESTIVAL
27 September - 7 October
Combining classical and traditional music with art exhibitions, workshops, master classes and community projects.

CAPE OUTDOOR ADVENTURE EXPERIENCE
29 September - 1 October
This annual exhibition covers the full profile of Outdoor and Adventure products and services from South Africa and its neighbouring countries.
www.outdoorexpo.co.za/cape/index.htm

CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW
6 - 8 October
South Africa's premier showcase for all yacht and water sports.
www.rcyc.co.za

NEDBANK CAPE WINEMAKERS GUILD AUCTION
7 October
A selection of 44 rare and unique wines from some of South Africa's most sought-after wineries.
www.capewinemakersguild.com

JAY-Z AND RIHANNA IN CONCERT
11 October
Hip-Hop heavyweight Jay-Z, and Caribbean Queen, Rihanna perform at the Bellville Velodrome.  Rihanna had massive global success with her 'Tainted Love' sampled single, SOS.

WORLD AMATEUR TEAM CHAMPIONSHIPS
14 - 29 October
Amateur golf's biggest international event.  Jack Nicklaus, Tiger Woods, Ernie Els, Phil Mickelson, Michael Campbell, Annika Sorenstam and Kerrie Webb all participated before turning professional.  Who will be next?
www.worldamateur2006.co.za

ROBERTSON WINE ON THE RIVER FESTIVAL
20 – 22 October
A new festival on the banks of the Breede River in the Robertson Wine Valley, showcasing the produce of the Valley’s 40 wine farms in the midst of entertainments and activities.
www.robertsonwinevalley.com/events.php

180º CEDERBERG MOUNTAIN BIKE EXPERIENCE
20 - 22 October
The most prestigious 3-day stage race on the South African mountain bike calendar.   Set in the breathtaking terrain of the unique Cederberg Wilderness Area, the route traverses stunning mountain passes, river-crossings and dusty jeep and technical single tracks.
www.180mtb.co.za

MONTAGU ANNUAL ROSE SHOW
20 - 21 October
Since 1988 this spectacular event has been a highlight on the calendar of all rose lovers.

BALLET: GISELLE
24 October - 5 November
Romance is in the air this October as the Cape Town City Ballet present one of the best- loved ballets of all time, Giselle.
http://www.capetowncityballet.org.za/2006-giselle.php

SAA CAPE TOWN FLOWER SHOW
26 - 29 October
An outdoor gardening experience with inspirational show-gardens in picturesque surroundings. The event provides a marketplace to see and buy gardening products and services and hosts a forum for lectures and demonstrations.
www.capetownflower.com

ELGIN OPEN GARDENS
28 - 29 October; 4 - 5 November
17 gardens are opening over two weekends in the Elgin, Grabouw, Bot River and Vyeboom areas.  A major annual attraction for garden lovers, and visitors to the SAA Cape Town Flower Show.
www.villaexner.com / www.capetownflower.com

WELLNESS FESTIVAL
27 - 29 October
A complete holistic lifestyle festival to nourish body and soul at the V&A Waterfront, with a wide variety of stalls, workshops and talks.

CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL FAIR
27 October - 5 November
The largest fair in Cape Town, with exhibitors from many countries showcasing furniture and fashion.

LIVE - BLACK MOUNTAIN - "WHITE WORLD TOUR"
31 October
Super-group LIVE, one of the world's most celebrated rock bands, return to SA for their most extensive tour yet. 

BILLY JOEL IN CONCERT
1 November
6-time Grammy award winner Billy Joel heads south to SA to perform hits from his massive repertoire.
www.billyjoel.com/intro.html

THREE PEAKS CHALLENGE
4 November
A unique, challenging and spectacular mountain and city run across Greenmarket Square, Devil's Peak, Table Mountain and Lion's Head, returning to the square after each peak. Fun and challenging but not for the faint hearted.
www.hikecapetown.co.za

GREAT WESTERN CAPE BIKE RIDE
4 - 12 November
Nine days pedalling through some of the most picturesque locations in South Africa, visiting game parks, wineries and spas.  Anyone can enter, and a bike is provided to ride and keep.
www.greateventcompany.com

INTERNATIONAL DRAGON BOAT FESTIVAL
10 - 12 November
The 10th Cape Town International Dragon Boat Festival encompasses 2 000 years of tradition and involves beautifully painted boats and spirited drummers.  Various international races are planned.  All proceeds go to charity.
www.dragonboat.co.za    

OPERA: COSI FAN TUTTE
11 - 18 November 
Mozart's witty and sophisticated comedy is a magical combination of marvellous music and sparkling dialogue.  Are women as faithful as they say? Are men as innocent as they claim?
www.capetownopera.co.za/htm/CosiFanTutte.htm / www.artscape.co.za/event_opera.php?eventid=622&activeid=1

CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL
16 November - 7 December
World famous conductors and soloists present a feast of music at various venues.
www.capephilharmonic.org.za / www.artscape.co.za

CAPE TOWN WORLD CINEMA FESTIVAL
14 - 21 November
A festival of world cinema with African film at its heart, this takes place at the same time as the Annual Sithengi South African Film and Television Market.
www.sithengi.co.za

INTERNATIONAL CRICKET: SOUTH AFRICA V. INDIA
26 November
India, in South Africa for a full summer tour, take on the Proteas in a One Day International at Newlands.
www.homeofsport.com/cricket/countries/details.aspx?id=3

WAVESCAPES SURF FILM FESTIVAL
8 - 13 December
A showing of the best international and local surf films following the popular revival of big screen surf movies around the world. Venues will include outdoor screenings on the beach using South Africa's first inflatable cinema-sized screen.
www.wavescapes.co.za

CAPE ARGUS SANLAM CYCLE TOUR
10 December
Cape Town's second largest cycle tour offers a choice of 118km and 72km routes through scenic winelands and is also the final seeding event for the Cape Argus Pick & Pay Cycle Tour 2007.

CAPE SUMMER SHOW
14 - 23 December
The biggest event on the Western Cape calendar, with over 700 exhibitors, live concerts, restaurants, beer tents, an amusement park and adventure zone.
www.capeshow.co.za

GUGULETHU RECONCILIATION DAY RUN
16 December
A unique township running experience celebrating National Reconciliation Day by combining athletes of all cultures.

MOTHER CITY QUEER COSTUME PARTY
16 - 17 December 
First held in 1994, Cape Town's annual MCQ Costume Party prides itself in bringing together all the various "queer tribes of Cape Town" for a grand summer bash.  This year's theme is "Comic Strip!"
www.mcqp.co.za  

GOOD HOPE FM / VODACOM CLIFTON BEACH CHALLENGE
17 December
Clifton's trendy 4th Beach plays host once more to this challenge featuring strength, speed and fitness contests between celebrity Springbok rugby stars and the Clifton Beach lifesavers. 

ALL- AFRICA OPEN PARAGLIDING CHAMPIONSHIPS
17 - 22 December
A rare opportunity for members of the public to see serious paraglider pilots competing at one of the world's best venues.
www.porterville.co.za

SPIER SUMMER ARTS FESTIVAL
December 2006 - March 2007
The annual summer program at Spier celebrates a proudly African line-up, presenting a diverse variety of performances.
www.spierarts.org.za

FESTIVAL OF CHARIOTS
26 - 27 December
An enactment of an ancient tradition where representations of Krishna sitting on a chariot are pulled by hundreds of people.   This festival is held annually in almost every city in the world and people of all backgrounds participate. This is the first time that the event will be hosted in Cape Town.

APPLETISER SUMMER SUNSET CONCERTS AT KIRSTENBOSCH
Sunday evenings 1 January – 31 March 2007
A chance to drink wine and picnic in one of the most spectacular concert venues in South Africa, the stage framed by the backdrop of Table Mountain.
www.nbi.ac.za

CAPE TOWN MINSTREL CARNIVAL
2 January 2007
Cape Town's biggest and most raucous carnival sees the city celebrating the advent of the New Year with numerous festivals, competitions and extravagant parades.

INTERNATIONAL CRICKET: SOUTH AFRICA V. INDIA
2 - 6 January 2007
The Third Test series at Newlands.
www.homeofsport.com/cricket/countries/details.aspx?id=3

SHAKESPEARE AT MAYNARDVILLE OPEN-AIR THEATRE
January - February 2007 TBC
An annual event, inspired by the productions in London's Regent Park. On warm summer evenings many theatre-goers begin the evening by picnicking in the park before the show begins.

INTERNATIONAL CRICKET: SOUTH AFRICA V. PAKISTAN
26 January - 30 January 2007
Having taken on India just two weeks before, now the Proteas face Pakistan in the Third Test series at Newlands.
www.homeofsport.com/cricket/countries/details.aspx?id=3     

J&B MET
27 January 2007
The Western Cape's premier horse race.
www.jbmet.co.za

INTERNATIONAL CRICKET: SOUTH AFRICA V. PAKISTAN ODI
11 February 2007
The Proteas face Pakistan at a one day international at Newlands.
http://www.victoryticket.co.za/Htm/sa_pakistan_fixtures.htm   

DESIGN INDABA EXPO
23 - 25 February 2007
South Africa's premier showcase of local design from all sectors.
www.designindabaexpo.com

CAPE COUNTRY PICNIC FESTIVAL
23 - 25 February 2007
At the beautiful Bien Donne Farm in Simondium families are invited to picnic on the large lawns under the oak trees, amongst exhibitors and food stalls and to the sound of live music.
http://www.cadek.co.za/BigEvents/picnic_festival.htm

CAPE TOWN PRIDE
16 – 25 February 2007
Africa's Mardi Gras.
www.capetownpride.co.za

GAME OUTENIQUA WHEELCHAIR CHALLENGE
17 February 2007
The premier disabled sporting event on the South African sporting calendar.
www.game-occ.co.za

CAPE TOWN FESTIVAL 2007
6 - 24 March 2007
The best in original South African and international music, performance, public art, comedy, spoken word and visual arts. www.capetownfestival.co.za

CAPE ARGUS PICK N' PAY CYCLE TOUR
11 March 2007
A highlight of every cyclist’s calendar, this is the world's largest individually timed cycle race, with over 35 000 cyclists tackling a scenic 109km route around Cape Town.
www.cycletour.co.za

CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL
30 – 31 March 2007
The Cape Town International Jazz Festival (formerly known as The North Sea Jazz Festival) is officially dubbed 'Africa's Grandest Gathering' and boasts an impressive line-up of the world's top jazz artists.
www.capetownjazzfest.com

THE CAPE EPIC MOUNTAIN BIKE RACE
24 March – 1 April 2007
This annual epic mountain bike race involves over 900 mountain bikers from across the globe riding more than 900 gruelling kilometres through the magnificent scenery of the Western Cape.
www.cape-epic.com

TRANS CAPE
24 March - 2 May 2007
An inaugural large-scale exhibition of contemporary Africa art featuring more than 60 African artists from over 19 countries showing work at 24 locations across the city of Cape Town.
www.capeafrica.org/exhibition.html