My Cape Town

We all have days of being Data Deficient, but to be globally listed as such could be rather an insult.  Yet such is the fate of the Bryde whale.  On further investigation, the implication is not so much that it is naturally blonde but simply that there is insufficient information about the species. This very shy mammal is estimated to number just 90 000 - that’s approximately the population of Hemel Hempstead - sprinkled throughout the vast tropical and temperate waters of the world.  There have been more sightings of the Loch Ness Monster.  Probably.

About the Southern Right whale, on the other hand, we know pretty much all there is to know. Their annual migration to the Western Cape has just begun and shortly there will be thousands here, having meandered their way up from the Antarctic for their annual love-in in our relatively warm waters.

Last weekend Joseph and I were invited to go looking for whales with Dave Hurwitz, one of Cape Town’s great characters and the sole permit holder for boat-based whale watching in False Bay.

It was one in a series of stunning Cape Town winter days.  The sun beat down, warming the cool, crisp air and hardly a breath of wind ruffled the sea’s surface.  Even if we’d seen nothing more exciting that a cormorant it would have been a beautiful day just to be out on the water.  And for a long time we saw, well... nothing at all... just the blue haze of the mountains around the bay and the long golden stretch of the Muizenberg strand. 

Then the cry went up – the distinctive V-shaped plume of a Southern Right hung in the air just 100 metres away.   Within minutes there seemed to be whales all around us.  Not loads, as often happens at peak whale season in September, but 5 or 6 – enough for us not to know which way to look... which one might pop up next?  Would it surface in the same place or would it have moved on a distance?  Did that one look like it was diving deep?  Might it show us its tail...?

Dave operates a small yet roomy boat and we were just 9 passengers, able very easily to rush from side to side for the best viewing, while he regaled us with facts and stories about Southern Rights.  Facts such as that a single Southern Right testicle can weigh up to 500 kg.  For a fraction of a second everyone paused as we all subconsciously marked the moment of absorbing a piece of trivia that, like it or not, would stay with us for the rest of our lives.

Then a shiny black back appeared with a small dorsal fin.  Definitely not a Southern Right yet far too large for a dolphin.  Squeaking with excitement, Dave rushed back to the helm and nudged the boat a little closer.

No doubt about it, this was one of the famed Bryde whales known to haunt False Bay but incredibly rarely seen.  By law Dave was required to note its GPS location and the time of sighting.  The water was so calm we awed passengers could see the long, thin outline under the water as it slid silently past – smaller and slimmer than the Southern Rights and distinctly elegant.  It appeared to show an unusual interest in the boat and circled around us for I don’t know how long – it could have been two minutes, it could have been ten.  All we knew was that it was a Momentous Occasion.

On our return I Googled for more information on both the Southern Right and the Bryde whale.  There were an inordinate number of references to the size of the Southern Right’s testicles, though none to those of the Bryde.  Or to anyone in Hemel Hempstead for that matter.  Now that’s Data Deficient... but it's fine with me.

Daisy

www.capeconcierge.co.za

Dave Hurwitz and his team operate the Simon’s Town Boat Company.  They have three trips a day for whale watching at a cost of R 600 for adults and R 450 for children under 12.  For more info go to www.boatcompany.co.za   or email Dave directly on .

Guest House of the Month

Colona Castle

False Bay

8 suites

There are few things more welcoming than a gracious host and Nicole Brand is a prime example.  Since falling in love with Colona Castle over a decade ago, she and her husband Michael have poured heart and soul not just into the property but into making sure their guests have best time possible during their stay in Cape Town.

Situated high on the hill above Muizenberg and False Bay, Colona Castle is in an area all too often overlooked by many tourists yet for centuries those in the know have recognised it as one of the warmest areas on the peninsula in the cool winter months, and one of the freshest during the long, hot summer. And it is not just the climate that is rewarding… by day, the house takes in a panorama of mountains, beach and lakes and by night of shimmering-yet-silent city lights.

It is also ideally placed to be within easy striking distance of the city, Cape Point and the winelands and restaurants of Constantia, while at the bottom of the road is the charming village of Kalk Bay with its quirky shops and cafes, and a bustling harbour from which Nicole buys the catch of the day for her guests.

Inside the décor is rich and sumptuous.  From the high windows and the wall of French doors opening onto the balcony, light streams in to the main lounge and highlights the vivid textures of the furnishings and the depth of colour and contours of the many artworks and sculptures.  This room is constantly adapted to the needs of the guests, from a cosy breakfast room with a roaring fire in the winter, to a light-hearted, semi-al fresco dining room in the summer or a banqueting hall for a celebratory party.

Each of the eight bedrooms has a distinct theme and character in keeping with the quirky architecture of the house and its well-travelled owners.  Whole suites appear as if by magic from behind what appears to be the door to a storeroom.  One of my favourites, the luxurious yet crisply fresh New Suite, is hidden away behind the garage!

If there is any emphasis at Colona Castle it is healthy, organic living and an appreciation for the world around us. Not surprisingly its food is renowned, to the degree that it was recently placed  8^th in the 100 Best Restaurants with Rooms Worldwide survey conducted by The Observer.

And Nicole rarely starts a day without a stroll along the golden sands of Muizenberg beach, soaking in the early morning sun and the fresh air with the added anticipation of a whale sighting.  Guests have often been known to get up early on their holidays in order to walk with her and enjoy her company. Now that’s going the extra mile… literally.

Suites at Colona Castle start at R 690 pps until the end of September, then at R 930 pps until 30 April 09.

Upcoming Events

Highlights for August, selected from WhatsoninCapeTown.com   - the indispensable guide to all that's happening in Cape Town.   For full details and more events, check out the website.  Upcoming events include festivals, shows and fairs; music, theatre and dance; cricket and other sporting events; comedy and concerts and exhibitions; celebrations of wine and whiskey, flowers and freedom... bring it on, Cape Town!   

Click here to contact me and find out how you can subscribe to my weekly information service.