Top of Page

My Cape Town

Acutely aware of my own mortality I teetered on the edge of the sheer cliff-face, face green and legs trembling. It astonished me that I should have volunteered myself into such a situation. It seemed so easy while in the depths of pregnancy to swear that one day I would abseil down Table Mountain.  But now that day had come.

A little anxious, I had arrived on the top of the mountain a whole hour early, so had had time to explore the walkways and views.  Why hadn’t I been up for so long?  Table Mountain really is magnificently, upliftingly impressive.  I stared in awe at the views all the way to Cape Point and let my eye explore the nooks and crannies of the Cape coastline basking in the clear autumn light.  Breathtaking. 

But I couldn't quite relax knowing what lay ahead.  Rather unwisely I edged over to the Abseil Africa team’s base, thinking forewarned would be forearmed.  One disbelieving glance downward and I turned away abruptly.  I tried nonchalantly to resume my meander but the world had been stripped of its joy. I slumped on a rock, my face rigid, suppressing the urge to be sick.

There was an extremely strong chance that I wouldn’t see this through but I knew I would regret it if I backed off.  After all, at 112 metres this is the highest commercial abseil in the world.  And it’s not just any old rock face but dear old Table Mountain – 520 million years old and an internationally recognised icon. It would be like abseiling down Paul Newman.

Lifting my head from between my knees, I trudged back to where Tim, who was in charge of the operation, had obviously seen plenty of people as nervous as me.  He talked gently but confidently, and like some kind of horse whisperer he had me in a harness before I could say “Gravity”.  He explained the principles of abseiling, had me repeat a couple of simple rules and then leapt over the rocks to the start point, with me lurching unsteadily behind him.

We were in the shadow here and looking down to the warm, bright sunlight over Camps Bay and Clifton the contrast was startling. It was a windless day and the sea was dead calm – a Mediterranean azure blue that cried out “Don’t die today!”

I didn’t look down again for a while after that.  Feeling the Fear rising again, I jumped up and down and cracked my neck from side to side the way boxers do in films.  I tried to ignore those around me who were leaning out over the cliff edge saying things like “Oooohhh – is that a waterfall?” and “Aaaah – look at that cloud below us!”  I added punching my own hands into my repertoire, and blew out short hard breaths. 

Then it was time to go.  I was told to put on a pair of what appeared to be gardening gloves and various clips were undone and redone and checked and double-checked and before I knew it I was leaning out backwards over a 1000 metre drop and grinning idiotically for what might well have been my last photo. 

I glued my eyes to the rock face and gingerly inched myself down.  It was fine.  So long as I didn’t look down and didn’t move an eyebrow more than necessary it was fine.  I got a bit braver and took a couple of longer steps. Then I heard a sharp exclamation from Vaughn, my anchorman at the top.  My head snapped back with alarm, eyes zeroing in on him as he turned to Tim and said “Did you remember to buy milk?”

Ha ha. My laugh might have sounded a little strangled, but the tension was broken.  I lowered my gaze as far as I dared and took in the astonishing view – the grey face of the cliff dropping away under my feet then curving outward in lush green slopes ending in golden beaches and the Atlantic Ocean. The houses of Camps Bay and Clifton were tiny dots and these vibrant suburbs seemed still and silent from my perch.  My head spun momentarily but the rope didn’t snap and my feet remained on the wall.  I was safe.  I was hanging from a bit of string off the side of a mountain but I was safe. 

I carried on walking backwards, the glove on my right hand growing hot with the friction of the rope.  I stopped to admire a tiny plant growing happily in a crack on the rock face.  I hadn’t a clue what it was, but on Table Mountain alone there are over 1 500 plant species – more than the whole of the British Isles – so this was bound to be something special.  How many people had ever, would ever see this particular plant?  I ran out of things to think about the plant and made myself look down again.  Right, still miles to go.

I was feeling fractionally more relaxed by now.  Growing in confidence, I propelled myself out a little, pushing with both feet at once. Down, down, dooby down down, smooth as 007.  I could feel the remaining length of rope growing lighter. Then without warning the cliff edge veered straight inwards, leaving me wobbling on the tip of a huge overhang.  I scrunched my toes in my boots, trying to cling on to the last fragment of rock before the void, but there was no choice.  I took a deep breath and lowered myself a little further. Now I was just dangling in space, revolving slowly.  How insignificant was I, a tiny little speck against this vast ancient mountain?  Yet I was overcome with elation at the freedom of the situation, at the awesome view, at my own achievement.

The end of the rope met the ground another 15 metres below. I slid down slowly, tired now, but reluctant to bring my escapade to an end.  When my feet finally touched the ground, my head was still in the clouds. Scrambling back up the protea-lined path to the top, I came across a couple of straggling tourists who avoided my flushed face, crazed eye and triumphant grin.  I felt ten foot tall and infinitely superior to those common folk who had simply wandered around near the cable car. I had conquered a mountain. Life was great.

 Daisy

Top of Page

Villa of the Month

Many Cape Town villas fall into one of two camps.  Either they are of the strictly modern marble-and-suede brigade, or they look like someone’s grandmother’s house.  Mary Strathmore is particularly delightful because it presents a clean, fresh, comfortable style while remaining sympathetic to its Victorian origins.

Offering no less than 5 bedrooms and 4 bathrooms, this spacious villa is fantastically located within walking distance of Camps Bay beach - literally a 5 minute stroll away from the buzzing beachfront with all its wonderful cafés, restaurants, cocktail bars and clubs, and of course the warm white sands and blue waters of Camps Bay beach. 

The main villa has four bedrooms, with a separate suite available on the pool level.  The master bedroom and the suite are both particularly special, offering charming and comfortable rooms, an en-suite bathroom each, and fabulous views of Camps Bay beach and the majestic Twelve Apostles.

The living and dining areas are open plan. Leading off the dining area is a balcony with an outdoor dining table and chairs, offering breathtaking views of the golden Camps Bay beach and its indigo blue waters – the perfect spot for sipping heady sundowners on a balmy summer’s evening in Cape Town.  

Mary Strathmore features many lovely details intrinsic to the older, stately homes in Camps Bay, from the beautiful wooden floors to the high ceilings, from the charming fireplace in the master bedroom to the vine-covered trellis of the outdoor courtyard.

The house also offers a brand new pool on the lower level surrounded by a wooden deck and offering gorgeous sea views – an ideal setting for a quick cooling off after spending the day on the hot sands of Camps Bay beach. 

Mary Strathmore is available from between R 2 500 and R 5 700 per night - an extremely reasonable price for Camps Bay.  For more information, contact me:

Top of Page

Cheap flights

Flyglobespan, voted Airline of the Year 2005 by BAA Scotland, has cheap flights from Manchester to Cape Town direct.  Flights will be available three times a week November to March and will cost around £450 including taxes.

Top of Page

Upcoming Events

KIRSTENBOSCH WINTER WARMER CONCERTS
7 May - 29 October
Cape Town's top musical talent will be performing in the warmth and comfort of the Silvertree Restaurant at Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden on Sundays this winter.

THE 2006 WINTER SYMPHONY SEASON OF THE CAPE PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA
1, 8, 15 & 22 June
Warm sounds for the cold weather by three conductors, and excellent international and local artists.

BULL OF AFRICA EXPEDITION RACE
3 - 10 June
This international event tests the endurance, emotional strength and teamwork of top adventure athletes from South Africa, Brazil, Russia, Ireland, the US, New Zealand and the UK on a 570km non-stop adventure.  Competitors will be expected to kayak, hike, mountain bike, explore caves, swim and abseil.

MAMMA MIA! HERE WE GO AGAIN
7 June - 15 July
The smash hit musical that took South Africa by storm in early 2005 will tour again in 2006 in a more intimate theatre setting.

SOUTH AFRICA V. FRANCE AT NEWLANDS

24 June

Two magnificent international rugby sides clash at this famous stadium.

FIRST NATIONAL FESTIVAL OF GOLF
8 - 16 July
An exceptional opportunity for golf enthusiasts from around the world to enjoy some of South Africa's finest golf courses. 

ISUZU BERG RIVER CANOE MARATHON
12 - 15 July 
This 202km race has been held annually for over 40 years and is the longest canoe race in South Africa and one of the most strenuous and gruelling in the world.

MANCHESTER UNITED AT NEWLANDS

18 July

Newlands Rugby Stadium will host another international fixture this year when soccer giants Manchester United come face to face with Kaizer Chiefs. Tickets are on sale from today (Thursday 1 June)

STELLENBOSCH WINE FESTIVAL
3 - 5 August
More than 100 top Stellenbosch wine producers showcase their wines.

RMB WINEX CAPE TOWN
30 August – 1 September
The premier public event on South Africa's national wine calendar, drawing thousands of wine enthusiasts every year.

V&A WATERFRONT SPRING FLOWER SHOW
30 August - 3 September
A celebration of the miracle of nature with garden exhibits, show gardens, floral art and art exhibitions.

CAPE TOWN 10TH INTERNATIONAL COMEDY FESTIVAL
3 - 24 September
South Africa's biggest comedy festival, featuring the world's leading stand-up comedians alongside South Africa's best.

TABLE MOUNTAIN CHALLENGE
16 September 
A 35km trail run on Table Mountain through cool indigenous forests with mountain streams, slopes of fynbos and awesome vistas. Relay options available for entry level participants.  

CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL KITE FESTIVAL
16 - 17 September
The skies above Muizenberg will flaunt a fantastic visual display as kite enthusiasts from around the world congregate in this seaside suburb.

AFRICAN AIR DEFENCE EXPO  
20 - 24 September
An international event including two public days with an air show and an exhibition.

HERMANUS WHALE FESTIVAL
22 - 25 September
Every year, from July to December, the Southern Right Whales travel thousands of miles to South Africa to mate and calve in the bays. The town of Hermanus offers some of the best land-based whale watching in the world, and the festival includes the world's only "Welcome Whales Wave", a human chain of 4 000 people.

Homeless World Cup

24 - 30 September

Now in its fourth year, this international event is to be hosted by Cape Town and will see teams from no less than 48 nations taking part.

CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL FAIR
27 October - 5 November
The largest fair in Cape Town, with exhibitors from many countries show casing furniture and fashion.

CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL
16 November - 7 December
World famous conductors and soloists present a feast of music at various venues.

CAPE TOWN WORLD CINEMA FESTIVAL
17– 26 November
The festival proudly proclaims its intent to be "a festival of world cinema with African film at its heart."  The festival takes place at the same time as the Annual Sithengi South African Film & Television Market.