As James Fernie of Uthando Tours points out, a visit to the townships isn’t about gawping at life on the other side of the fence, but about facing the ugliness of the past and supporting  the many fledgling projects that are a triumph over adversity.  A good tour should be a chance to learn about the problems of both past and present while seeing how people are rising to the challenges that face them.  Community-based projects range from old age homes to daycare centres for children born with HIV, from art projects to rehabilitation programmes, theatre groups and music tuition.  These are thirsty for recognition, and a steady trickle of visitors not only raises their self-esteem, but brings in much needed funds.

Dance For All is a prime example. Started 20 years ago with the bold idea of empowering street kids by teaching them classical ballet, today it reaches over 1000 children across the Western Cape. Run entirely on donations it has been a spine-tingling success, with former pupils now working professionally in the performing arts industries all over the world. The enthusiasm, energy and jaw-dropping ability of these children – many of whom come from the harshest of backgrounds - is both inspiring and deeply moving.

In a similar vein, the Siyazama (‘we are trying’) Garden Project is a true oasis amongst the dusty streets of Khayelitsha. It is one of 100 such micro farms dotted throughout the townships in which, from some of the poorest soil in the famously rich-earthed Cape, the workers grow a fabulous variety of organic herbs and vegetables. Much of the produce is then sold, in weekly boxes, via schools in the wealthier suburbs.  Anyone is welcome to visit, from local students to a gardening dunce like me. Admittedly I hardly rolled up my sleeves, merely drank tea on the shady stoep and then pottered around the garden collecting snails, but I left revitalised and inspired.

Most guides insist that their tours are not begging bowl routes.  Tourists are specifically instructed not to give any money during the route, though they may make donations afterwards should they wish to do so. 

It’s a wise policy.  There is inevitably a sense of guilt which, as an emotion in search of a direction, can easily be turned sour by a suspicion of being ‘milked’. But let a little time pass and the extraordinary sense of goodwill felt in the townships will linger.  If, then, it is thought how easy it would be to donate funds so that the Khumbalani Daycare Centre could repair the wall beside the road and the children could play outside again, or so that Siyazama could drill another borehole to increase their water supplies, or the Volcano Arts Project could buy some plaster and paint for their newly built theatre, then that’s wonderful. 

But in fact anyone merely paying the ticket price of the tour will have helped towards those things. And that, together with the stark reminder to count our blessings every day, has got to be a step in the right direction.

Daisy

www.capeconcierge.co.za

2009 WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR EXHIBITION
to 13 March
An annual competition, owned by London’s Natural History Museum and BBC Wildlife Magazine, which this year attracted 43,135 entries from 94 countries, from both amateur and professional photographers. The exhibition includes 95 of the very best images, chosen for their originality, creativity and sheer drama.

CAPE TOWN PRIDE FESTIVAL
to 7 March
An annual showcase of the diversity and sense of togetherness within the gay community. Highlights include the launch cocktail party, a street parade, fashion shows, a book fair, sports events, art exhibitions and some great parties, including a ball.

OPERA: THE MAGIC FLUTE
to 6 March
Winner of the Olivier Award for Best Musical Revival, this is a South African take on the original Mozart Opera performed through vibrant African song, dance and music. Performed in English, Zulu, Xhosa and Tswana.

STARLIGHT CLASSICS CONCERT
5 March
Performances by Freshlyground, FNB Twenty Tenors, Pro Cantu Youth Choir, Annake de Villiers, Zwai Bala , Brandon October and the Cape Philharmonic Orchestra conducted by Richard Cock.

SA NAVY FESTIVAL
5 March - 7 March
Gun run, Naval dog display, tug rides, displays of fire fighting, cannon firing and air/sea rescue as well as a chance to explore Navy ships and submarines and visit German Navy ships. Other highlights include a talent show, a soccer tournament and live entertainment.

RUGBY: STORMERS V HIGHLANDERS
6 March
A Super 14 Match. The local boys take on the New Zealand team.

IZIKO SUMMER SCHOOL: SUTHERLAND EXCURSION
6 March - 7 March
A tour around Sutherland featuring a lecture on the geology of the Karoo and a tour of the world famous South African Large Telescope.

MUSICAL: GREASE
6 March - 11 April
An all-South African production of the popular musical.

KIRSTENBOSCH SUMMER CONCERT: GOLDFISH
7 March
The highly popular duo perform their jazzy, deep house and electro tunes.

DARWIN LECTURE: NINA JABLONSKI
9 March
The professor of anthropology at Pennsylvania State University and author of the award-winning book Skin: A Natural History discusses her research and findings on the 'unseen' aspects of human evolution, most notably the evolution of human skin and skin colour.

CONCERT: CLIFF RICHARD AND THE SHADOWS
9 March - 10 March
The final world tour for the rock group, with the members performing together for the first time in 20 years.

VOICE OF THE NATION ENSEMBLE
11 March - 13 March
Presented by Cape Town Opera, the ensemble performs a programme of African choruses and opera hits.

RUGBY: STORMERS V HURRICANES
13 March
A Super 14 Match. The local boys take on the New Zealand team.

FRANSCHHOEK VENDANGE CELEBRATION
13 March
A long harvest table in the town centre offers locals and visitors an opportunity to sample fine wines from the area and a food prepared by some of Franschhoek's best chefs. Other highlights include live entertainment and grape stomping.

CAPE ARGUS CYCLE TOUR
14 March
The largest timed cycling event on earth sees thousands of people (this year including Lance Armstrong) battling it out on the 109km scenic route.

CONCERT: KELLY CLARKSON
17 March
The most successful winner of American Idol performs as part of her All I Ever Wanted international tour.

Cape Town Carnival
18 March - 20 March
With a theme of "Rhythm, Roots & Boots" the first Cape Town Carnival celebrates the diverse traditions and cultural expressions of the Mother City. Friday night features street, club and beach parties, while Saturday sees the huge float parade. Each of the groups perform for one hour each from midday onwards.

CAPE TOWN FESTIVAL
19 March - 22 March
An annual event showcasing the heritage of the different cultures of Cape Town as part of the Human Rights day celebrations.

WELLINGTON WINE HARVEST FESTIVAL
20 March - 22 March
A 3 day celebration with wine, food and music, grape stomping, long leisurely lunches, quad bike rides, fishing, boules and cricket on offer at participating cellars.

THEATRE: OUT THE BOX
20 March – 28 March
A selection of stories told through puppetry, dance, shadow theatre and physical performances. See WhatsoninCapeTown.com for full programme.

MUSIC: BED ON BRICKS
20 March
The popular SA band performs a melting pot of reggae and African funk hop supported by afro-popsters jacSharp.

K-DAY MUSIC FESTIVAL
20 March
A day for Capetonians to picnic together and enjoy live music from the likes of Goldfish, Prime Circle, HHP, Lira, Flat Stanley, Sasha Lee, Jamali, Jesse Clegg, Freshlyground and BlackCurrent.

RUGBY: STORMERS V CHEETAHS
20 March
A Super 14 Match. The local boys take on the Bloemfontein-based team.

KIRSTENBOSCH SUMMER CONCERT: CAPE PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA
21 March
Conducted by Pieter Daniel, the orchestra is joined by acclaimed classical guitarist, James Grace, in a performance of Rossini's La Gazza Ladra Overture, Spanish Concierto De Aranjuez by Rodrigo and Tchaikovsky's Symphony No.4.

CONCERT: ELTON JOHN
24 March
The legendary pop singer and pianist returns with his hit solo tour, Under the African Skies.

TASTE OF CAPE TOWN
24 March - 28 March
Watch star chefs in action in an elegant outdoor setting as 18 of Cape Town's top restaurants and chefs show off their signature dishes. A chance to sample and purchase top quality produce.